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Ed_Faranda

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Ed_Faranda last won the day on August 12 2015

Ed_Faranda had the most liked content!

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About Ed_Faranda

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 01/13/1966

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.dancingwithlights.com

Profile Information

  • My favorite Christmas story
    I love CHIRSTmas.
  • Location
    Lakewood, California, USA
  • Biography
    I have a degree in Electronics Engineering Technology and currently work for Southern California Edison as critical facilities manager where I take care of critical electrical facilities.
  • Interests
    Electronics, Computers, Skiing, Paintball
  • Occupation
    Facility Manager
  • About my display
    30000+ Lights, 176 Channels of LOR and one **** of an Electric Bill = Priceless...!
  1. Beta or Production?

    It matters what you're programming. For me, I used LOR in the beginning. When I was using strictly LOR product. However, when I switched to RGB LEDs, then it was easier to use xLights. Over the past major revisions of xLights. It has become a lot easier to program.
  2. Dead Channel?

    Probably a bad Triac. You should be able to get them from Digikey.
  3. GFCI outlets or GFCI breaker

    You can put a standard plug on the load side of a GCFI outlet. Both of GCFI outlet and the standard plug will be protected. You can put as many of the standard plug after the outlet per code without exceeding your maximum rated current.
  4. How to program/run LOR controller with xlights?

    I did this very thing last year. I created a sequence in LOR for some elements which were easier to program in LOR. I then imported those sequences into Xlights, created the FPP program and loaded it onto my Pi. The key is, each element of the display needs to be created. I used a lot of custom mappings to create these. Then when I imported, I used the mapping feature on the import to import each channel to each specific element I created in xLights. Sounds like a lot of work at first. However, it doesn't take long and once you have the mapping set up. It goes pretty quickly.
  5. Power Supply

    Depends on what you have available. Generally, 110 volts. You can do 220... But, it would kind of be a waist of a 220 circuit...
  6. Could be a couple of things.... Is it always the same controller which can't be found? If so, try plugging the cable in the other jack. Maybe the jack is bad.
  7. Drilling thru stucco?

    depending on your construction, there maybe a 1/2" sheet of plywood behind stucco. This you can use a standard 4" hole drill. However, getting through the stucco, brown coat, and chicken wire will be your biggest issue. If you have access to the opposite side of the stucco, I would go that ground and maybe use a hand saw to chip away at the stucco. Unless you can find a 4" concrete hole drill. I would then put a 4" conduit sleeve on it to protect the wiring and opening and use a 4" fire block plug during the off season.
  8. Best Zip Cord?

    It is similar to SPT wire, which is rated for that type of installation... The insulation is different, thus rated differently than sprinkler wire.
  9. New Transmitter

    Randy, What do you use? Do you have RDS with whatever you use?
  10. Best Zip Cord?

    That is really not a good idea. I know you're keeping the current low to ensure your don't go over amps on the wire. However, the problem and the reason why we use proper size and insulated wire, it is for fault protection. Also, the NEC does not allow any permanent installation of wire less than 14 gage. (I know this isn't permanment) With the wire that you are using, the wire will catch fire prior to popping a breaker or blowing a fuse. This can be dangerous and more than likely cause a fire if a fault where to occur. This is why we properly size wire.... Not because of what we're going to draw, but for fault potential. We want our fuse/breaker to go before the wire. I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS: However, if you're going to use wire which is rated less than the lowest circuit/fuse rating, then you need to use a properly size wire. Therefore, prior to going to the 18 gage wire, you should have a fuse/breaker installed limiting the current to the wire. i.e. since in your case, your max current is 2.5 amps, I would put in a 4 to 5 amp fast-blow fuse. IF, the wire can handle 5 amps at 120 volts. (I think it does) AGAIN, I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS. I by all means am not recommending using 18 gage wire for a 120 volt application. 18 gage wire is for low voltage (24 volts). My suggestion is to never defer from the NEC code, therefore shouldn't be using using anything less than 14 gage. Ed My disclaimer... As a critical facility manager taking care of data centers, grid control centers, etc. for an electrical utility, I do have some advanced knowledge of electrical applications. However, I am not a license electrician, and therefore I always insist you check with one prior to the installation of electrical wiring. (But, I have seen some license electrician put in "iffy" insulations as well.)
  11. Completely NEW to this! Please Help!!!!

    My suggestion is to get a couple of controllers from LOR. It is kind of late in the season to go RGB, it is going to take some research and a lot of the sales are already over. Start simple and work your way up. LOR is having their sale right now, so it is a good time. If you're able to solder circuit boards, you can save some money by buying the kits.
  12. Christmas Expo

    Would like to see something a little closer to California. Nevada or Arizona would be great....
  13. After 8 years, I am thinking of replacing my FM100 transmitter with something better. Would like something with RDS. I use LOR and xLights to program my lights. Any suggestion on what to get? I have no problem assembling (soldering) the unit myself. In fact, I enjoy it. Need something with decent power that puts out a nice crips signal.
  14. We need a dedicatede circuit anyone?

    Have some pictures of the installation, would like to take a look at it.
  15. I would just use regular rope then run a set of wire along side of it using tie wraps. Use garland to decorate the wire. This way, if you need to replace the wire over time, it isn't that big of a deal. Where the wires enter the rain deer, use silicon to seal the hole.
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