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Running your lights at a lower intensity doesn't really much electricity.

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I'd like to see more information that a usage meter only measures on the + side of the wave. I'm skeptical simply because it would be (in my limited knowledge) very easy to abuse this:

Assume 2 phase AC (normal 220v for houses):

1 - Connect rectifiers to each phase to allow power to flow only during the - side of the wave.

2 - Couple these together to get 220v DC current

3 - Use this current to create AC power (either via inverter or a DC run AC generator)

Again, this is getting WAAAAAY out of my league. My assumptions could be completely ridiculous to those who know ANYTHING about electricity!

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Yep, I'm with the other electrical guys here and think that the killowatt isn't a good tool to use to find power/current when "chopping' the waveform for dimming purposes.

Probably the best answer would be to ask the LOR folks what their timings are for a 50% light output. I know this is not linear and if you knew what percentage of the waveform is presented to the bulbs I think it would be a start. I dont belivee this to be a trivial calculation (meaning someone who remembers calculus is needed).

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Greg Young wrote:

While the above discussion is very interesting, one point was not mentioned - longevity of the lights.


Run at about 75 - 80%, the bulbs last waaaaaay longer than the 2 - 3,000 hours they are rated to last.

One of my biggest reasons for going with controllers as well--the ability to run lights at less than 100%. Ever put a 130v long-life bulb on a 120v circuit? It's a little dimmer, but it lasts for years!

Also, the ability to do what theatrical dimmers can: preheat bulb filaments by always running channels at something more than 0% but less than the percentage where light output becomes obvious. This reduces stress on the bulb filaments caused by dimming and frequent on/off cycles.

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