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Light Keeper Pro Saves the Day for Neighbor.


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OK this post did not go thru well.

If you have a set of 100 bulbs with one half out, pull one bulb from the good half to keep it from taking all the juice, then click it or hit it with the high voltage. The good half will short out your testerand will take all the juice from the bad half. AI

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The LKPBeeper function takes practice to use properly. Once you have the experience in using it, it will find a bad bulb in about 10 seconds.

Thehardest thing to get used to is the optimal distance away from the set you need to hold the LKP. Take a set that is out and practice. On the side that is out see how close you need to be near the first bulbs to get the LKP to beep. The go to the last bulbs and see how close you need to be to get it to beep again (if at all), The optimal distance is somewhere in between.

Now, to quickly check a set:

  1. Plug the set in and go to the LAST bulb (the one furthest from the plug) that is in theOUT section and beep test. Did it beep? If so, reverse the plug in the wall socket and test the last bulb again. Did it beep again? If so, replace the last bulb in the set and start over at #1.
  2. Now go to the bulb CLOSEST to the plug in the OUT section and beep test. Continue down the out section until the LKP stops beeping. At that point, I go back and forth beep testing that bulb and the one before it. Beep, no beep. Beep, no beep. With practice you will definitely tell when you have found the bad bulb. At that point replace the bulb that DOESN'T beep. If the set doesn't light start back at #2.
Things to remember:

  1. Scanning down the wire until the LKP stops beeping is fine to try to roughly find the bad spot. At that point you should be aiming theLKP atthe bulb and/or the socket to determine exactly which bulb is bad.
  2. Get your fingers out of there! Try not to hold the bulb/socket that you are testing. Pull it slightly away from the other wires and hold the set away from the bulb you are testing.
  3. Wireframes are hard to test since any little power in the set makes the whole thing magnetized - making the LKP beep EVERYWHERE. Pull the bulb out of the plastic holder and AWAY from the wireframe then test.
  4. When testing chasing sets, set the box to SOLID. It's impossible to find a bad bulb when they are blinking on and off!
Advanced Techniques:

  1. I don't test EVERY bulb,instead, I do a 'binary' search. I go 1/2 the way up the bad section and test. If it beeps, I go another 1/2 UP the bad section, otherwise I go 1/2 the way back. I keep going back and forth like this until I find the bad bulb. Doing it that way means you only have to test 5 to 6 bulbs before you hit on the bad one.
  2. I don't do the plug flip. If the end bulb beeps I reverse my thinking and work backward. I then replace the last bulb that beeps.
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  • 1 month later...

Randi wrote:

we have a reindeer butt out and we have one.....but for the life of me even with the instructions - can't figure out how to make it work!

Someone want to explain clearly??? Thank you!!

Randi

Deer are tough to do with the continuity tester because you have wires going in all directions. Someone posted this tip a few weeks ago but I don't remember who it was so I can't give them the credit they deserve.

It was said that if youuse the shunt fixer in a darkened room you will see a small spark jump through the bad bulb. I haven't had the opportunity to try it yet.

If this really works it will make life a lot easier.

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Chris in Ct wrote:

It was said that if youuse the shunt fixer in a darkened room you will see a small spark jump through the bad bulb. I haven't had the opportunity to try it yet.

If this really works it will make life a lot easier.

I have done this and it works! I was inside pulling the trigger in the basement which is not lit very well and saw out of the corner of my eye a spark. Does not work all the time but sometimes it does.

Long live the LKP!

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I was thinking of this thread a few times this year... Mine really saved me a TON of work! Heck, my Grandma called me on christmas eve, her small wreath (50 lites) just went out... She was so upset, didn't know what to do... I told her to not worry about it... I took the LKP there, plugged in the wreath, found the first bulb, plugged the LKP into the socked, pulled the trigger ONCE, and poof! the wreath was lit again! Did a quick search and found the burned out bulb... and I saved Christmas, lol. She was absolutely amazed!

I was able to use it just like this many times this year... I have a lot of older minis, and shut failures are common. I can do the "bulb flick" and usually find them, but when they are hard to get too or I just have the LKP handy, I'll use it.

After I bought it last year I had NO faith in it, after so many successes with both the shunt fixer and the continuity tester on it, I'm a believer now!

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RichardH wrote:

I have done this and it works! I was inside pulling the trigger in the basement which is not lit very well and saw out of the corner of my eye a spark. Does not work all the time but sometimes it does.

Long live the LKP!

Yes, in fact this is how it works for me most of the time. I just start clicking either inside with no lights on or if I am outside after dark. Look for the little flash, it is usually very faint. When you see the flash, that is the bad bulb. Replace the bulb and you are back in business. I fixed all 6 of my reindeer this year that had bad sections.

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I also recommend the light keeper pro. I was very skeptical when I bought it, but I had several strings of garland lights that I could not get working. After the lkp, they are all working. Also fixed a deer and some other older strings just demonstrating it to family members. It is like magic.

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jeffostroff wrote:

LKP stinks. I find it useless, and eroneous. It beeps when it should not, and doesn't beep when it should, so it's inconclusive on the strings I jahve tried, and even used all the methods mentioned above. Waste of money.

Doesnt work with any LED lights but for me both the pen detectors and the LKP work awesome. The click the gun 20 times thing worked for me every single time I used it, but I do believe it cant possibly fix the string if the bulb is loose.

These things are AC detectors, they can only detect the pass thru circuit on 120 volt A/C lines... since LEDs can only be run at DC, the LKP, Fluke or other A/C detectors are more then useless with LED.

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jeffostroff wrote:

LKP stinks. I find it useless, and eroneous. It beeps when it should not, and doesn't beep when it should, so it's inconclusive on the strings I jahve tried, and even used all the methods mentioned above. Waste of money.

Jeff maybe you have a bad one. If they are a waste of money do you really think everyone would continue buying and using them? I bought one as a gift this year and 2 more I picked up for 5 bucks yesterday. They are tricky at times to get use to but they are worth there weight in gold. I wouldnt go without mine for anything.

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jeffostroff wrote:

I think you're incorrect. The LEDS are run at AC not DC. The 120 volts is passe through half wave or full wave rectifiers.

The 120 volts is passe through half wave or full wave rectifiers.

Then its pulsing DC. :]Not AC.:{AI

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jeffostroff wrote:

I think you're incorrect. The LEDS are run at AC not DC. The 120 volts is passe through half wave or full wave rectifiers.

The 120 volts is passe through half wave or full wave rectifiers.

Then its pulsing DC. :]Not AC.:{AI

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This is from the LKP site on their FAQ page:

Will the LightKeeper Pro Quick Fix Trigger work on all Light sets?

NO. The LightKeeper Pro's Quick Fix Trigger will only work in series Miniature Light sets with shunted bulbs. The LightKeeper would not be appropriate for the larger lamped C7, C9 sets, tube/rope lights or LED Lights.

As for your problem with the continuity tester, I think that's because it won't work on DC current.

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