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Light Keeper Pro Saves the Day for Neighbor.


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This is from the LKP site on their FAQ page:

Will the LightKeeper Pro Quick Fix Trigger work on all Light sets?

NO. The LightKeeper Pro's Quick Fix Trigger will only work in series Miniature Light sets with shunted bulbs. The LightKeeper would not be appropriate for the larger lamped C7, C9 sets, tube/rope lights or LED Lights.

As for your problem with the continuity tester, I think that's because it won't work on DC current.

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jeffostroff wrote:

Holy Shunt Chuck, you're right! I'm glad you pointed that out. It would have been nice if the instructions mentioned it.

Yea I think because these are diodes the a/c detectors sense the push/pull of A/C but the diode makes it DC. Also for me I use 90 volts as my maximum brightness due to electrical service limitations and yes it is a way to lower energy consumption about 15 to 20% without dimming the bulbs and you get additional bulb life on traditional bulbs but somewhere I often need to carry both the LKP and fluke pen detector... the LKP is less sensative making it better for wireframes and netlights, the fluke works better with 4 hot chasing lights and straight set lights. Also sudden temperature changes can make these devices less able to detect A/C... like they are warm from being in house and take them outside into the cold... for a short time they dont want to detect anything but in your pocket they are just beeping like going out of style... sometimes once out in cold 1/2 dead batteries are now next to useless so keep fresh batteries in them. For me and LED lights, they dont go off at all unless near the A/C pass thru cord but if you have a corrosion issue, I have found almost every single time with bad LED strings due to corrosion, it seems the very first or last light on the string is the corroded one. I think this is because its the most likely one to be closest to the soil.

On all my bad LED lights the first one is corroded beyond repair but all the others are in good condition. LED lights with replacable bulbs in my case rust and corrode badly when closer then 6 inches from the soil and often once this happens the socket is totally rusted so replacing the bulb doesnt help you much.

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jeffostroff wrote:

Holy Shunt Chuck, you're right! I'm glad you pointed that out. It would have been nice if the instructions mentioned it.

Yea I think because these are diodes the a/c detectors sense the push/pull of A/C but the diode makes it DC. Also for me I use 90 volts as my maximum brightness due to electrical service limitations and yes it is a way to lower energy consumption about 15 to 20% without dimming the bulbs and you get additional bulb life on traditional bulbs but somewhere I often need to carry both the LKP and fluke pen detector... the LKP is less sensative making it better for wireframes and netlights, the fluke works better with 4 hot chasing lights and straight set lights. Also sudden temperature changes can make these devices less able to detect A/C... like they are warm from being in house and take them outside into the cold... for a short time they dont want to detect anything but in your pocket they are just beeping like going out of style... sometimes once out in cold 1/2 dead batteries are now next to useless so keep fresh batteries in them. For me and LED lights, they dont go off at all unless near the A/C pass thru cord but if you have a corrosion issue, I have found almost every single time with bad LED strings due to corrosion, it seems the very first or last light on the string is the corroded one. I think this is because its the most likely one to be closest to the soil.

On all my bad LED lights the first one is corroded beyond repair but all the others are in good condition. LED lights with replacable bulbs in my case rust and corrode badly when closer then 6 inches from the soil and often once this happens the socket is totally rusted so replacing the bulb doesnt help you much.

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Most LEDs are sealed, like the M5 minis from Home Depot. So when one of those go bad, I can save the string by doing my gastric bypass surgury on the bad LED. Other LED strings do have replaceable lamps, and I just do the old plug and chug method.

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Most LEDs are sealed, like the M5 minis from Home Depot. So when one of those go bad, I can save the string by doing my gastric bypass surgury on the bad LED. Other LED strings do have replaceable lamps, and I just do the old plug and chug method.

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