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Guy Wire Discussion


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Hi folks,

I'm still planning my 2008 mega tree. Working the guy wire issue at this stage. I was just wondering if you had any clear-cut suggestions on how toproperly guy-wire a 20-24 foot mega-tree? Questions include:

--should it be guy-wired attwo locations (top and 2/3rdsthe ways down).

-- What angle should the guy-wire come down from the tree (how much more real estate do I need to include the guy-wires).

--How many guy wires are needed (3 or 4 - maybe three at the top and three more mid-way down in different directions)

--What's the best types of stakes (rebar, 3/4" or 1"steel stakes, what length, angle into ground, etc.).

-- What's the best guy wire material (wire cable, turnbuckles, swages, etc.).

Appreciate any input...


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my tree wat 22 feet. this was the first year for mine also here is what I did:

I guyied at one location. about a two foot from the top. this may be dependent on the amount of weather you get.

the guys don't take up much realestate. although watch i hung myself a few times.

I used three wires each were staked approx 10 feet from the base.

my stakes were 2 foot rebar with the top bent to hold the wire.

I used wire cable (not sure of the gauage) with turnbuckles.

everything worked fine.

hope this helps


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Our tree is over 8.5m in height - thats around 28 ft. The wind here can get up pretty high and we don't have a lot of real estate. Therefore we have used 4 steep guys at the top "outside" of the tree and another set half way down to stop the whip in the middle. These are added after the lights are all on and is basically as high as my mate can reach off the step ladder!:DAll guys are attached to existing structures or the fence . .

The material used for the guys is hi tensile "12 and 1/2" guage fencing wire pre stretched (by my ute trying to pull down a apple blossom tree!):laughing: The pole for the tree is 1" (ID) Galv steel "water pipe"

Here's a photo . . .

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For my 20' tree I have 4 of them 12' out from the center. I used 3/16 steel rope and used ratchet straps instead of turn buckles. They had as high of a breaking strength as the turn buckles I had baught, but were extremely easy to use. I also run my guys all the way to the top of the tree. Well, just under the star.

Here are a couple threads I have saved that may be useful.



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  • 1 month later...

Some quick bits for you to digest..

Check the ratings of all your guying hardware, such as the cable itself. Clevises or quick links, turnbuckles, clamps, etc.

I don't think it's unreasonable to have each guy cable, assembly capable of holding near 1000 lbs,IF you have sufficient ground anchoring and attachment point at the top. I say that trying to account for the worst case scenario of 50+ mph winds, ice storms, heavy snow (like one storm that was so heavy, one of my trees looked like a folded up umbrella. Major weight/wind load)

The reason I bring that up is many of the generic turnbuclkes you find, might only have a rating of a couple hundred lbs.

Another thing to consider with guying is not to overtighten your guy wires with turnbuclkes. Too much tension will cause compressive tension in the mast creating a "bow" that will fail easily with any additional outside loading. You only have to take the slack out of the cables to hold the tree in one place.

I personally don't use turnbuckles on my trees. Just pull the cables taught and get the tree level, and then fully tighten the clamps, and they don't move at all.

Just food for thought...

Now get to work on those projects. Only 8 months to go!

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I learned a bunch my first year as I lost my single mega tree three times.

We get high winds every year. 2006 we had a hurricane (yep in the NW)

2007 I had three megas:


The two smaller ones had only one set of guy wires at 45 degrees.

The larger pole (2" schedule 90) had guys at the top and at the one

welded joint. 32' was just too long (tall) to use one set of guy wires (IMHO).

I used cast turn buckles (not bent steel) from Tek Supply. I also got

my earth anchors from them. I put permanent hold down anchors in

concrete and then put green irrigation covers over them.

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