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Wireframe Snowflakes

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  • 3 weeks later...

I ended up just drawing a pattern on the floor of my garage with a sharpie.

And now you have an everlasting template on your garage floor for when I want some!!

If the neighbors see that they are going to think you are in some kind of weird cult! :eek:

TED :cool:

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  • 4 months later...

I have only painted one of mine so far... its outside doing a weather check (4 days so far) i water it everyday.... it took 2 cans of paint to get 3 coats (its 36") on top of 2 coats of primer..hope it lasts.

Up date on the weather test i started seeing the first stages of rust (this sucks) i guess i will need to get them powdercoated.

I am curioes, you have rust already? Huh, I may haave to rethink the painting issue then....

Ya only 5 days (i think) not much rust just a faint red haz.

its comming from several of the joints, and i thought i did a real good paint job.

just more info the temps have been going from hot 80 to cold 35 and i watered the flake at 8pm dont know if any of that made it rust faster.

got a quote from a powder coater and he said he would do all 14 of mine (stripping the firtst one) for $105.00, with a 4 hr turn around (he needs th ework) I will be visting him on sat.

It all comes down to surface prep. If ANY water at all touches the bare metal you will have rust. You might consider using a product called Dupont Metal Conditioner. The first thing to do is to make sure that there is no rust. If this a repaint of an old item you would want to sandblast or use a wire brush wheel in a drill to get down to bare metal. If it is a new item that you just made then you want to make sure there is no oil or grease on it. You could clean it with lacquer thinner. Once it is clean and dry then you can use the Metal Conditioner. You will want to wear some good neoprene (or similar) gloves because this stuff will tear up your hands! You need to dilute it 50/50 with water. (I know this seems counter intuitive!) Apply it with a clean rag and then dry it off with another clean rag before it dries. Drying it off is very important. The metal conditioner will remove any unseen rust and it will leave a phosphate coating on the bare metal. Once it has dried real good you are ready to paint. Do not handle it with your bare hands because you will get oils from your skin on the metal! DO NOT GET IT WET! If you are going to use primer use the Rustolium rusty metal primer. This is the red (sometimes called "ruddy brown") primer. Don't fool around with the gray primer or the "clean metal" primer. Use the red kind. Once the primer is dry you need to scuff the surface with a scotch brite pad. This will leave dust. You will need to clean it using air and/or a clean cloth. DO NOT GET IT WET. (There is a special cleaner you can buy but that's probably overkill for this type of project.) Now you are ready for paint. As before don't touch it with your bare hands because you will get oils from your skin on it. On this type of a project I would skip the primer and just spray them white. As you can tell this procedure is somewhat of a hassle but it should prevent any rust under your paint. If you can get all your snowflakes powder coated for 100 bucks that sounds like a deal! (Surface prep is also very important for powder coating. Normally, everything is sandblasted before powder coating.)


Edited by TED
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  • 2 months later...

I made 8 of these snowflakes in the last couple days. They turned out great! Thanks for sharing all the measurements and instructions on how to put them together. Of course, my thumbs feel like they're going to fall off this morning from doing 800 light clips last night! Here's a few iPhone pics of them.

Before paint




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