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toozie21

making a custom conveyor belt

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Could you use 2 sprockets and a chain instead of a belt. weld a tab to one of the links on the chain to attach your package to it. No slipping, minimum stretching. You could put a tensioner on the underside of the table if needed.

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You could use identical multi-gears (like front or back gears on a mountain bike) to link the conveyors together. As long as each end of the same conveyor uses the same size gear, the speed will be the same for all three.

   {C 1}       {C 2}       {C 3}


[1]-----[1] [1]-----[1] [1]-----[1]

[2]     [2]-[2]     [2]-[2]     [2]


I totally agree with that. If I have one roller tied to the sprocket and let the other one turn freely, if the canvas belt makes that one turn, I could get away with something like this, right? (f=free and s=tied to sprocket):
   {C 1}       {C 2}       {C 3}


[f]====[s] [f]====[s] [f]====[s]

       [1]--------[1]--------[1]


vroach: that is a good idea. I am planning on buying some early parts to play with soon. I think if I shoot for the actual conveyor and it doesn't work, the "beltless" approach would make for a fairly easy attempt two.

After doing some research, I think the 25 pitch chain like here: https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2252010518492219&catname=&qty=1&item=1-1163-25 looks like a good variant to use. There appears to be a decent amount of sprockets out there that work with it. It isn't the same pitch as a bike chain, but I think it is cheaper and easier to find sprockets on the surplus sites. Anyone have experience changing link sizes and modifying chain lengths? It a pain?

~J

Edited by toozie21

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The only issues I can see with the second drawing (yours) is that the [1] gear in the middle position will have very little chain meshing area and may tend to slip (jump teeth) under load. If you went that way the middle gear needs to be larger, but then that upsets the ratios.

My method gives you a 18 degree mesh area for every gear and will handle a higher load I suspect. I guess a sprung idler gear either side of the middle [1] gear would help but then there's the issue of them sharing the load. Actually, just one idler gear may be enough. Its position may be related to the direction of travel though.

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The only issues I can see with the second drawing (yours) is that the [1] gear in the middle position will have very little chain meshing area and may tend to slip (jump teeth) under load. If you went that way the middle gear needs to be larger, but then that upsets the ratios.

You know what, I never thought of it that way (this is why I am trying to attempt something mechanical, to expand my horizons). That being said, I think you probably have a good point. There isn't going to be much of a load, but I am not sure why I should risk it. With the chain I am looking at costing $13/10ft, it isn't going to be too costly (in the scheme of things) to build it up a little more robust.

I am thinking that the rod that runs through the rolling pin is probably about a 1/4" diameter. That being said, I was debating on using something like this (just as an example): https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2232010519434478&item=1-2742-9-A&catname=

or something more along this gear with the separate hub: http://www.servocity.com/html/hub_mount_sprockets___250_.html

~J

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I'd love to have access to a store like that over here. Stuff like that in Oz is often 5x - 10x those prices. :(

Which one is the interesting one to you?

Either way, according to both places websites, they will do internation orders (no idea what it would cost to ship them).

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I don't have a specific project or parts in mind, just general drooling going on! :D

I'll have to bookmark them and check postage price when the next madcap scheme enters my head. LOL

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