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Mega tree aspect ratio?


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is there a general rule of thumb for height to base circle diameter to follow for a mega tree or just what suit preference?

I know a true to life "mega tree" is supposed to be 20 feet or taller.. but in a small yard like mine and a 1 story house a 20 foot tall tree is just too much... so im going to do a 12 or 13 foot tall tree and then another 1 or 2 foot "topper" (not a star).. and was thinking a 10 foot diameter or 5 foot radius at the bottom would give me kind of that tall skinny look.. and not totally block the view of other display elements......

It will be a 48 light strand tree... 3 colors.. 8 channels for each color.. 2 strands of lights for each channel....

this is also something manageable for me when it comes to wind as I dont have to run guy wires into the neighbors yard at that height i can keep them in my yard.... also means i can use a portable hole as well..

what are your thoughts?

-Christopher

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My tree is 12' tall with a 6' radius. Tall and skinny. Looks good to me.

Do you mean 12' tall and 6' diameter? If you have a 6' radius then the base is 12' in diameter. This would make for a fat tree.

The general rule of thumb is the height is double the base. If you want it a little skinnier then the base should be less. I would suggest 12' height and 5-6' base.

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10' diameter for a 13-15' tree sounds more like a wide tree to me. I agree that 2:1 (H:W) is a nice tree--not sure if you would include the topper in that measurement or not. I went a little under that ratio, and felt it was a tad too skinny--will adjust for next year to true 2:1.

I too was planning on using a portable hole for my base. Here is a good video I used a lot last year when designing mine and decided to change my mind on the hole (vid courtesy of midnight302). I went with his idea for anchoring the pole (T-shaped 6' fence post) and it worked great. I was worried about storing the portable hole, and figured it would kill the grass during the winter. In NE Ohio, probably like Columbus, it is sometimes soggy and sometimes frozen. Plus as you know, we got nailed with 60mph gust this season. My 15' tree didn't budge a bit. I was guyed in the middle and from the top. Used dog ground anchors to secure my anchors. Anchors unscrewed easily this past weekend and the fencepost just required a few pushes back and forth in the soggy ground and it pulled out fairly easily too. Much easier storage.

6229322.jpgdog-ground-spike%5Bekm%5D80x80%5Bekm%5D.jpg

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Shaun

My mistake, your right. 12' tall; 6' diameter; 8 channels; 3 colors; 48 strings; 2 100 count strings per channel. The strings are doubled over so there is actually 4 strings going from top to bottom per channel.

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10' diameter for a 13-15' tree sounds more like a wide tree to me. I agree that 2:1 (H:W) is a nice tree--not sure if you would include the topper in that measurement or not. I went a little under that ratio, and felt it was a tad too skinny--will adjust for next year to true 2:1.

I too was planning on using a portable hole for my base. Here is a good video I used a lot last year when designing mine and decided to change my mind on the hole (vid courtesy of midnight302). I went with his idea for anchoring the pole (T-shaped 6' fence post) and it worked great. I was worried about storing the portable hole, and figured it would kill the grass during the winter. In NE Ohio, probably like Columbus, it is sometimes soggy and sometimes frozen. Plus as you know, we got nailed with 60mph gust this season. My 15' tree didn't budge a bit. I was guyed in the middle and from the top. Used dog ground anchors to secure my anchors. Anchors unscrewed easily this past weekend and the fencepost just required a few pushes back and forth in the soggy ground and it pulled out fairly easily too. Much easier storage.

6229322.jpgdog-ground-spike%5Bekm%5D80x80%5Bekm%5D.jpg

so do you slip the pipe over the green fence post in the center or tie it along side?? I really like that idea.. im going to have to test to see if I can find a drive point for that post.. im taking out a real tree in the center of the yard this year because i hate it... it is a bradford pear and is a pain in my neck.. so there will be roots at various places ill have to deal with.. but I really like the video.. gives me some great ideas!!... I also like the 2:1 ratio look....

-Christopher

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I too was planning on using a portable hole for my base. Here is a good video I used a lot last year when designing mine and decided to change my mind on the hole (vid courtesy of midnight302). I went with his idea for anchoring the pole (T-shaped 6' fence post) and it worked great. I was worried about storing the portable hole, and figured it would kill the grass during the winter. In NE Ohio, probably like Columbus, it is sometimes soggy and sometimes frozen. Plus as you know, we got nailed with 60mph gust this season. My 15' tree didn't budge a bit. I was guyed in the middle and from the top. Used dog ground anchors to secure my anchors. Anchors unscrewed easily this past weekend and the fencepost just required a few pushes back and forth in the soggy ground and it pulled out fairly easily too. Much easier storage.

6229322.jpgdog-ground-spike%5Bekm%5D80x80%5Bekm%5D.jpg

so do you slip the pipe over the green fence post in the center or tie it along side?? I really like that idea.. im going to have to test to see if I can find a drive point for that post.. im taking out a real tree in the center of the yard this year because i hate it... it is a bradford pear and is a pain in my neck.. so there will be roots at various places ill have to deal with.. but I really like the video.. gives me some great ideas!!... I also like the 2:1 ratio look....

-Christopher

The post is T shaped, so the mega-tree pole rests nicely in one of the sides of the T. It wouldn't fit over it, unless you used over 2"+ pole. I used 3 hose clamps to attach the tree pole to the fence post. That way you could tighten them nicely. Since the T-Post has studs on the one edge, there was no way that the clamps were going to slide (not that they could since you can screw them pretty tight). The fence post is very rigid, so you can hit it in with a sledge, and it would go through small roots easily. I don't think you could bend it if you tried, since it is T shaped.

I think the 6' T-post was about $7 at Lowes. Since on the topic of fence posts, I used two 3' U-posts driven into the ground 6" apart and mounted my controllers to them. Worked well too. Nearly impossible to get both out of the ground together (especially in cold ground), so kept the boxes very secure, and off the ground. Once it was soggy, I was able to pull them out, but only one at a time, so had to remove the controller (screwed onto the posts from inside the locked controller).

Post differences: http://www.fencepost.cc/studded-t-post.html

Some other nice pics from a thread I used in the planning of my design too: http://forums.planetchristmas.com/showthread.php?t=23693

Edited by Surfing4Dough
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Hi Chris,

If you remember my tree, it was ~13 1/2' to the top of the lights + 18" topper and it had a 10 ft diameter base which was about 12" off the ground. Since I don't have a pulley or jack to raise the lights, the height was determined by how high I could reach off of a step ladder.

I would like to go a little higher, somewhere around 18' high and maintain the same 10' diameter base. I want to get close to the 2:1 but not too tall that the tree looks skinny.

It had 4 colors, 12 strands wrapped into super strands.

Used 19 channels:

12 clear channels

1 channel each for r,g, & b

3 channel star topper

1 channel for strobes

So you're pretty sure the bradford pear tree is history?

Joe

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Hi Chris,

I used Darryl's mega tree calculator and did a tree 12.5', and it said the base should be 6'. It's usually right on.

Bill

is there a general rule of thumb for height to base circle diameter to follow for a mega tree or just what suit preference?

I know a true to life "mega tree" is supposed to be 20 feet or taller.. but in a small yard like mine and a 1 story house a 20 foot tall tree is just too much... so im going to do a 12 or 13 foot tall tree and then another 1 or 2 foot "topper" (not a star).. and was thinking a 10 foot diameter or 5 foot radius at the bottom would give me kind of that tall skinny look.. and not totally block the view of other display elements......

It will be a 48 light strand tree... 3 colors.. 8 channels for each color.. 2 strands of lights for each channel....

this is also something manageable for me when it comes to wind as I dont have to run guy wires into the neighbors yard at that height i can keep them in my yard.... also means i can use a portable hole as well..

what are your thoughts?

-Christopher

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