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Franks Mighty Mini LED lights!


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Here are the resistor values that the DIY guys decided to use. red=68ohms green=56ohms blue=39ohms white=47ohms

I've built 3 of these so far, and have had one of them constantly changing colors for the past 2 weeks, using LORDC. I haven't had any problems so far. What I may do this weekend is test each color on constantly for a couple days each just to see what happens. I love these things, and I'm hoping they are going to solve my color wash problems.

Bill

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I sure wish this were designed at 12V. PC supplies are plentiful and free...

Yes...me too. I had several power supplies with lots more capacity than what I really would need (12v). Had several vary from 35 to 50 amp capacity :-(

Mmmmmm. Wonder if you use some computer power supplies together to get the 24v? I have a 50amp power supply made up from computer supplies.

Mmmmmmm.

Robert

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Would something like this unit work?

Don't buy that unit - it doesn't even list if it's AC or DC output. Go to ebay and purchase this:

http://cgi.ebay.com/24V-DC-14-6A-350W-Regulated-Switching-Power-Supply-New_W0QQitemZ270461331147QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3ef8c066cb

This will power up to 14 mighty-minis.

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This would work great, and it's not real expensive.

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/PS-2417/24VDC-1.7A-POWER-SUPPLY/1.html

Bill

Specs:

Power-One # MAP42-1024. Input: 85-264VAC. Output: 24Vdc 1.7A. 40 Watt, convection cooled single output switching power supply in a 3.0" x 5.0" x 1.25" industry standard pc board package. UL, CSA, TUV, CE.

Be aware that this power supply would only power 1 mighty mini flood light as it is only 40watts. the mighty mini requires (up to) 24 watts per light with all the LED's on.

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I sure wish this were designed at 12V. PC supplies are plentiful and free...

I sure wish you'd quit asking the same question over and over again. I responded to that question here: http://forums.planetchristmas.com/showpost.php?p=452764&postcount=24

There is a very good reason why the mighty mini is 24v - so that you can run two floods on a single, cheap, cat5 cable with less power drop than you would otherwise get on a 12 volt configuration.

I don't agree with the statement "12V supplies are much easier and cheaper to obtain" - 12 volt is "common" for people not in the industrial world where 24v is the rule. So, I performed a few quick checks on ebay for switching power supplies in 12v and 24v and the prices were (buy it now/free shipping):

12V:

20amp (240 watts) - $38.99 / $.162 per watt

30amp (360 watts) - $45.85 / $.127 per watt

24v:

14.6amp (350 watts) - $54.99 / $.157 per watt

15amp (360 watts) - $49.99 / $.138 per watt

As you can see, 24v and 12v are pretty much on par with one another. Again, the advantage is that you'll have lower cabling costs with cheap Cat5 cable.

So did we ever get a final answer on the resistor question at c-LED's? :) (yes I see she lists the resistor values, no I have no clue if they're the right ones or not ;) )

Did you go to the link and review the powerpoint from our DIY workshop that I posted on the first page in post #4?

http://forums.planetchristmas.com/showpost.php?p=460316&postcount=4

BTW - it's on page 6. There is even a link to a site in the presentation that shows you how to calculate the proper resistor level.

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so a 100 watt output if I'm planing on 4. What kind of light coverage will one unit give out. I was thinking 4 for my house, but maybe I can get away with 3. One for the peaked left side and 2 for the right side.

http://www.holidaycoro.com/2010LSHWorkshop/Mighty-Mini.pdf

Pages 16, 17, 18 and 19 show 8 Mighty Mini floods on a 2 story house, about 2ft away from the front of the house, in the bushes.

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Do you recall how much shipping was. I cant get the shipping estimator to work on their website.

Chris I can't honestly tell you as I ordered through work as an add on since we purchase laser tachs from them to ship with one of our products.

I can tell you they charge exact UPS... no hokey "handling" ;)

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I sure wish you'd quit asking the same question over and over again. I responded to that question here: http://forums.planetchristmas.com/showpost.php?p=452764&postcount=24

There is a very good reason why the mighty mini is 24v - so that you can run two floods on a single, cheap, cat5 cable with less power drop than you would otherwise get on a 12 volt configuration.

I don't agree with the statement "12V supplies are much easier and cheaper to obtain" - 12 volt is "common" for people not in the industrial world where 24v is the rule. So, I performed a few quick checks on ebay for switching power supplies in 12v and 24v and the prices were (buy it now/free shipping):

12V:

20amp (240 watts) - $38.99 / $.162 per watt

30amp (360 watts) - $45.85 / $.127 per watt

24v:

14.6amp (350 watts) - $54.99 / $.157 per watt

15amp (360 watts) - $49.99 / $.138 per watt

As you can see, 24v and 12v are pretty much on par with one another. Again, the advantage is that you'll have lower cabling costs with cheap Cat5 cable.

Did you go to the link and review the powerpoint from our DIY workshop that I posted on the first page in post #4?

http://forums.planetchristmas.com/showpost.php?p=460316&postcount=4

BTW - it's on page 6. There is even a link to a site in the presentation that shows you how to calculate the proper resistor level.

I have no idea why you're being so hostile.

12V supplies come in every PC built since, well, probably the early 80's at least. They're free to anyone who knows how to use Craigslist... 24V supplies might be common in industrial uses, but I don't have connections there. I'm happy for you if you do.

Also not sure why you can't just answer my question "yes" or "no" regarding the resistors. I understand the DIY community likes to make people do their own homework, and that's fine, but this was just a simple yes or no question.

By the way, the following is not a question, it's a statement, so next time you feel like lambasting me for "asking the same question over and over again"...:

I sure wish this were designed at 12V. PC supplies are plentiful and free..

End of my discussion in this thread.

Edited by tfischer
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There is a good reason why people ask questions, mainly because they want good answers. The answers given here are not so good. Because of the miriad of XMAS/LOR flood posts that have been taken over by talk of this flood, I felt it gives me the opportunity to try and set things straight.

First of all, the statement that 24vdc is required and better to run two floods is completely false. The MM flood uses 24vdc because of the configuration of the LEDs. If the series string forward voltages add up to more that 12vdc, then a higher voltage is needed to satisfy the Vf of the particular LEDs. And, the statement that it is better for cable length and lowers the voltage is again, completely false. Lets look at ohms law shall we? I know that may be difficult since multiple revisions of the MM flood were released without these simple calculations being performed correctly. OK, 200ma at 24vdc and what do you get for a resistor. Now lets change the configuration so that we require 400ma at 12vdc, same answer!!, What do you know. Now lets look at the voltage drop that you find in the wire. Drop that 24vdc value by two or three volts and see what current you now have at your floods. How bright are they now? And one that is on a 10 foot cable is brighter than the one on a 30 foot cable? None of what I have said can be undone by anything but 'smoke and mirrors'. Now lets talk about a constant current driver, which the MM does not use. Constant current drivers are UNAFFECTED buy voltage drop and cable length, they also provide power in the proper way to the LEDs increasing the life of the LED and prolonging the color that it emits. You may hear different, oh yes the failures were caused by the resistors. Why does the supplier have NO problems with everyone that IS NOT PWM dimming these LEDS? Because when you do that, it requires a constant current supply to operate properly. Is the MM the only place where the values were not figured correctly? Now that the resistors are 'right', what will the next LED failures be chocked up to? Is that what you want in a product you spend your money on?

Now let's talk specs. Would you buy a product that DRAMATICALLY alters their specs just to look better? The cool white LEDs that the MM flood uses are rated at 110,000mcd at 140 degree beam angle, that's 454.763 lumens per LED, does that sound right? And they are made by who?

Now lets talk about power supplies. 24vdc more common than 12vdc, a complete false statement. The fact that 24vdc is standard (which it is not) does not even enter into things when you consider the hundreds of thousands of PC supplies out there that supply 12vdc. As an Senior Engineer in the Test Equipment world for over 30 years, I can tell you that there is no standard voltage.

Now, lets talk state of the art, these pictures are two years old:

attachment.php?attachmentid=17221&d=1231800660

attachment.php?attachmentid=17222&d=1231800660

Does that case look familiar? Remember, these pictures are TWO years old.

Completely self contained, including constant current DMX controller and power supply, all in the same package as the MM.

What all of you will be able to purchase this year is way beyond even this.

I hear talk of a heat problem, that is completely false. Lots of work went into solving that problem, but bottom line is 'solved'. Then I hear that the MM is so much cheaper. How much do the LEDs that go into the MM flood cost? You all know. The LEDs that went into a single XMAS flood I can purchase, in single unit quantities, for $24. Now, what does that say about probable costs? Funny how things look a little different when you get real answers to those pesky questions.

All I ask of fellow decorators is to make an informed and intelligent decision when spending your good money on products. Think about design, reliability and support. Think about what was said to you to get you to purchase a product that will be obsolete before you even need them. Look at what RJ is doing with Aether, at least he is getting up to speed. Do you want to be left behind?

Those that can see beyond the hype will understand, all the others, I hope you find the same joy in your purchase as you would have if you had waited.

And for those that say, It has been coming out for a long time, I make this promise, 'If the LOR flood is not released this year, I will create a flood and controller that will blow away ANYTHING available, and, I will make them available at MY COST". That's my confidence that you can take to the bank, bring all the hype there and see what you get.

BTW, thank you trashers of the XMAS and LOR flood threads who allowed me that right to come here and set things straight. If I said ANYTHING wrong here, please let me know, I mean if my electronics knoweledge is lacking in some way, please inform me.

Now before anyone accuses me of pushing a product that I am making money on, I gave my flood to the community and don't have any ties to it other than my commitment to making sure everyone gets the best product for their hard earned money and that I made a contribution to the hobby.

Remember, purchase wisely!!

I sure wish you'd quit asking the same question over and over again. I responded to that question here: http://forums.planetchristmas.com/showpost.php?p=452764&postcount=24

There is a very good reason why the mighty mini is 24v - so that you can run two floods on a single, cheap, cat5 cable with less power drop than you would otherwise get on a 12 volt configuration.

I don't agree with the statement "12V supplies are much easier and cheaper to obtain" - 12 volt is "common" for people not in the industrial world where 24v is the rule. So, I performed a few quick checks on ebay for switching power supplies in 12v and 24v and the prices were (buy it now/free shipping):

12V:

20amp (240 watts) - $38.99 / $.162 per watt

30amp (360 watts) - $45.85 / $.127 per watt

24v:

14.6amp (350 watts) - $54.99 / $.157 per watt

15amp (360 watts) - $49.99 / $.138 per watt

As you can see, 24v and 12v are pretty much on par with one another. Again, the advantage is that you'll have lower cabling costs with cheap Cat5 cable.

Did you go to the link and review the powerpoint from our DIY workshop that I posted on the first page in post #4?

http://forums.planetchristmas.com/showpost.php?p=460316&postcount=4

BTW - it's on page 6. There is even a link to a site in the presentation that shows you how to calculate the proper resistor level.

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BTW, thank you trashers of the XMAS and LOR flood threads who allowed me that right to come here and set things straight. If I said ANYTHING wrong here, please let me know, I mean if my electronics knoweledge is lacking in some way, please inform me.

Now before anyone accuses me of pushing a product that I am making money on, I gave my flood to the community and don't have any ties to it other than my commitment to making sure everyone gets the best product for their hard earned money and that I made a contribution to the hobby.

It

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I'm all for comparing Apples to Apples, And I respect your project with the XMAS flood, in fact it was on my "To Buy" List, but since it has been purchased by LOR, it technically doesn't exist in the retail market yet, so we can only go from your word what it does.

I have seen the Mighty Mini's in action in person.

Once LOR brings your flood to market, I would be more then happy to wright up a review of it, comparing it to other solutions out there, but untill that day, no one can do that but you.

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Wow this is an interesting thread. Yeah...agree we shouldn't get upset with questioning ;-) Between being a teacher and DIY'er...have to ask and answer questions all day long 8-)

I have TONS of 12volt stuff around my ham shack and work shop. Also have seen lots of those supplies around hamfests.

Also have a bunch of computer supplies. I have one box made up into a 50amp supply made up of several computer supplies.

Just wonder if I could do something like this to get the 24v out of them;

http://www.otherpower.com/otherpower_battery_wiring.html

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you COULD. But I don't recommend that. PC PSU's have 24V buses, but they are only normally rated at an amp.

I asked the 12v question before, and it was explained (And made sense) that 12v looses voltage quickly over distance (Take a look at your outside low voltage lighting), where 24 v is more robust (Take a look at the old copper phone networks from Ma Bell, 24V is the "Ring" signal)

It also had to do with how the LED's were wired together. I think. But $19 is a small price to pay for a Power Supply, now if it was $50, yea, lets look at other ways of doing this!

I like the idea of the Mighty Mini's because they are the only ones offering a true White Ch. All other LED spots at this point only offer RGB=White, and you can see harsh shadows. I also plain on using my Mighty Mini's year round, replacing my low voltage floods on the front of the house, and they are white!

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I have no idea why you're being so hostile.

I'm not being hostile - just pointing out that the question was asked and answered.

12V supplies come in every PC built since, well, probably the early 80's at least. They're free to anyone who knows how to use Craigslist... 24V supplies might be common in industrial uses, but I don't have connections there. I'm happy for you if you do.

PC Power Supplies are poor choices in general for a number of reasons:

  • Requires modification - which adds complexity and safey issues
  • Bulky - nearly all PC power supplies are large and don't fit well into telco and cable boxes which limits your choices for mounting
  • Cheaper power supplies may not be able to supply enough power on the 12v rail to power the item

I sure wish this were designed at 12V. PC supplies are plentiful and free...

The mighty mini as you are aware is not designed for 12v - it's desgined for 24v. I'm sure Frank has no issue with you designing your own 12v mighty mini clone which will then suffer with additional requirements for heavier gauge wire to feed them... which may just negate the "free" 12v power supply.

Also not sure why you can't just answer my question "yes" or "no" regarding the resistors. I understand the DIY community likes to make people do their own homework, and that's fine, but this was just a simple yes or no question.

The answer is YES. Yes, the resistor values have been corrected.

By the way, the following is not a question, it's a statement, so next time you feel like lambasting me for "asking the same question over and over again"...:

When someone manages to rack up 11,357 posts, which is 7.2 posts EVERYDAY for 1,570 days, there is bound to be some dribble, repeating and "me to" comments. Maybe I should just understand that. I don't post for posting sake - I make every effort to post because I have something of "real" value to add to the discussion. :)

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I like the idea of the Mighty Mini's because they are the only ones offering a true White Ch. All other LED spots at this point only offer RGB=White, and you can see harsh shadows. I also plain on using my Mighty Mini's year round, replacing my low voltage floods on the front of the house, and they are white!

This is something people keep missing - it is the ONLY unit offering True White (Yes white is a mix of RGB but as said the shadows are a problem in landscape lighting). I also plan on using them year round and this ONE feature is what caught my eye and why it WON.

You can argue over the tech specs all day but if it doesn't have the features you want ... Has Red (Yes); Has Green (Yes); Has Blue (Yes), Has White (Yes - RJ & Craig lights published info both have NO White just RGB), Controller by LOR / DMX (Yes - Do I care it is a separate card and cost a few bucks more? - No: Base features most important RGB+W) - If it the best for the LED them self (Wasn't a deciding factor - if they last 3 to 5 years I will be happy with them - bought extras to replace when I have issues but easy parts to DIY a fix) Plus the MMFL is available NOW and has been in people hands now for a year so the bug have been worked out (Resistor Problems - there are a few other options on fix this ;) )

Also this isn't the solution or everyone but for a good chunk of people it might be. But everyone should do there home work.

Harrison

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I'm not being hostile - just pointing out that the question was asked and answered.

When someone manages to rack up 11,357 posts, which is 7.2 posts EVERYDAY for 1,570 days, there is bound to be some dribble, repeating and "me to" comments. Maybe I should just understand that. I don't post for posting sake - I make every effort to post because I have something of "real" value to add to the discussion. :)

Really? The smiley at the end does not negate your harsh, negative, and yes hostile comments.

A number of PC members, Tim included, have been making an effort to tone down the hostility and trash talking that has been increasing here lately. This is your official invitation to join us.

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A couple of notes -

The MM LED lights work great. I've built 4 and plan on a few more.

The resistor values that CC now says she ships in her pack are higher than is absolutely necessary, and will result in a slightly lower light output. The minimums were listed earlier in this thread.

The way the board that Frank makes/sells is built for a 24V supply. It has at least 6 LEDs in series, so it requires more than 12V to make them light. The circuit "could" be changed to handle 12V, but would require a totally different board, with more resistors and possibly higher current requirements.

There are several DC boards that can run these floods. I have heard of folks using the LOR DC and D-light DC boards. I've used RJ's MR16 controller and a DMX8 DC controller from RPM at DIYC with mine.

The LOR/XMAS flood is supposed to be great, possibly walks on water and syncs your songs automatically :), but is still NOT YET AVAILABLE. I do know that at least one DIY person has a similar model in the works for later this year. Cost - unknown. No criticism, just facts.

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I believe that your TV and your computer monitor do white just fine? They do that by mixing RG and B and have no white 'channel'.Floods that keep the R, G and B in a tight configuration , like a TV, do not have this problem. When RGB is done properly, white is NOT required.

Dsc06628.jpg

Look, has white, that's a pure white cabinet!! And where is that color fringing thing that you people say exists when mixing RGB? There are shadows but they are not in 'colors'.

Like I said, just trying to help people make informed decisions. Again, No criticism, just facts.

This is something people keep missing - it is the ONLY unit offering True White (Yes white is a mix of RGB but as said the shadows are a problem in landscape lighting). I also plan on using them year round and this ONE feature is what caught my eye and why it WON.

You can argue over the tech specs all day but if it doesn't have the features you want ... Has Red (Yes); Has Green (Yes); Has Blue (Yes), Has White (Yes - RJ & Craig lights published info both have NO White just RGB), Controller by LOR / DMX (Yes - Do I care it is a separate card and cost a few bucks more? - No: Base features most important RGB+W) - If it the best for the LED them self (Wasn't a deciding factor - if they last 3 to 5 years I will be happy with them - bought extras to replace when I have issues but easy parts to DIY a fix) Plus the MMFL is available NOW and has been in people hands now for a year so the bug have been worked out (Resistor Problems - there are a few other options on fix this ;) )

Also this isn't the solution or everyone but for a good chunk of people it might be. But everyone should do there home work.

Harrison

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ok, how can you get a warm white? Now you have to mix your CH's rather then just firing off a single ch. This doesn't work for 365 day use.

Again, the MM are on the market, and have been for a year or so. When I can get my hands on a XMAS/LOR flood, I'll evaluate it and see if it meets my needs

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