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  • The Christmas wreath was originally hung as a symbol of Jesus. The holly represents his crown of thorns and the red berries the blood he shed.
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  • Tinsel was invented in 1610 in Germany and was once made of real silver.
  • The oldest artificial Christmas trees date back to the late 1800s and were made of green raffia (think grass hula skirts) or dyed goose feathers. Next the Addis Brush Company used their machinery that wove toilet brushes to create pine-like branches for artificial Christmas trees that were less flammable and could hold heavier decorations.
  • ‘Jingle Bells’ – the popular Christmas song was composed by James Pierpont in Massachusetts, America. It was, however, written for thanksgiving and not Christmas.
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  • The first recorded date of Christmas being celebrated on December 25th was in 336, during the time of the Roman Emperor Constantine. A few years later, Pope Julius I officially declared that the birth of Jesus would be celebrated on that day.
  • Santa Claus's sleigh is led by eight reindeer: Dasher, Dancer, Prancer, Vixen, Comet, Cupid, Dunder (variously spelled Donder and Donner), and Blixem (variously spelled Blixen and Blitzen), with Rudolph being a 20th-century inclusion.
  • Outdoor Christmas lights on homes evolved from decorating the traditional Christmas tree and house with candles during the Christmas season. Lighting the tree with small candles dates back to the 17th century and originated in Germany before spreading to Eastern Europe.
  • That big, jolly man in the red suit with a white beard didn’t always look that way. Prior to 1931, Santa was depicted as everything from a tall gaunt man to a spooky-looking elf. He has donned a bishop's robe and a Norse huntsman's animal skin. When Civil War cartoonist Thomas Nast drew Santa Claus for Harper's Weekly in 1862, Santa was a small elflike figure who supported the Union. Nast continued to draw Santa for 30 years, changing the color of his coat from tan to the red he’s known for today.
  • Christmas 2018 countdown has already begun. Will you be ready???
  • Why do we love Christmas? It's all about the traditions. In this chaotic world we can miss the "good old days." Christmas reminds us of that time.
FrankAZ

Franks Mighty Mini LED lights!

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I haven't seen anything yet also. Not even a shipping notification and I can't login to http://store.kostyun.com/ now Humm?

I've been checking daily to see when the store will be back up so I can some left over boards. Store now back online last night before I turned in. Shows 400 boards available. I bought 12, paid via Paypal and this morning I recieved a "shipped" notice with tracking number. That was FAST!!

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I just ordered two boards. Gonna try my hand at soldering! I kinda don't trust my soldering skills, but I'm willing to try it out. HOWEVER, I did see that there were, at one time, some assembled Mighty Mini Floods available in the store. Any news as to when more of those will be available? I would rather avoid any disasters by purchasing pre-assembled floods if possible.

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Same here.....in fact is says Complete for the transaction and has no reference of shipping through paypal used. I'll be patient for awhile more...LOL I too get nervous when you pay for something and then the website goes down and doesn't come back up for months.

Chris,

I hear ya. I have yet to receive my 8. I'm hoping I get this sometime this week. Kindof a disappointment every day I go to the mailbox and find nothing but bills.

Kenny

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Chris,

I hear ya. I have yet to receive my 8. I'm hoping I get this sometime this week. Kindof a disappointment every day I go to the mailbox and find nothing but bills.

Kenny

From Frank on 4/14/2010 @ DIYChristmas.com

"Still going - shipping ~2 hours / day at the moment of packing and shipping.

Shipping notices are not being emailed due to I did an export from the shop, and imported to the paypal multi-order shipping (which has doubled my shipping productivity)

Also has been taking longer to pack/ship the led strips (as they are shipping separately)"

I doubt the multi-order shipping updates the status of each order either. You can probably just PM Frank if you are really worried, I know he has extra boards and if something was confused I'm sure he will make it right.

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Just got an e-mail from PayPal saying the package has shipped! Knowing how PayPal works, I'm sure it will actually be in the mail later today or some time tomorrow. Either way....YIPPIE!!

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Just got an e-mail from PayPal saying the package has shipped! Knowing how PayPal works, I'm sure it will actually be in the mail later today or some time tomorrow. Either way....YIPPIE!!

Everyone has been shipping.

Any questions/etc - best way is direct email frank at kostyun.com

life is still crazy buzy at the moment .

I do have a lot of boards (I ordered extras this time) so those are put up in the store. Of course, I've run out of tape, envelopes, thermal labels, and packing peanuts.

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Everyone has been shipping.

Any questions/etc - best way is direct email frank at kostyun.com

life is still crazy buzy at the moment .

I do have a lot of boards (I ordered extras this time) so those are put up in the store. Of course, I've run out of tape, envelopes, thermal labels, and packing peanuts.

Frank, There is a PPT presentation that indicates that your resistors values are wrong and not to use them. Can you please clarify. The PPT is here...look at slide 6

When do you expect your website to be back up so we can get build instructions and BOM for the other boards?

As always thanks a lot for the help.

Edited by mmulvenna

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Frank, There is a PPT presentation that indicates that your resistors values are wrong and not to use them. Can you please clarify. The PPT is here...look at slide 6

When do you expect your website to be back up so we can get build instructions and BOM for the other boards?

As always thanks a lot for the help.

That powerpoint was put together back at the first of the year so I'm unsure if his website is now updated to show the current values.

As it appears you are aware, "the" post that discusses the "correct" resistor values are listed here: http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7799 - I would recommend the reader read through the entire thread for lots of useful information - not just the resistor values.

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Ok, I'm just curious as to what you all are using for housing for the mighty minis and where you're getting them. I know the boards are to go into a halogen work light unit. But I have found nothing that resembles the photos in the "how-to" instructions. I've gone to Home Depot, and the only halogen work light they have looks like the picture below (this one is from Lowes - $9.98) but it is yellow, the base is better (rubber feet) and sells for $7-$8. I actually like this set up, as it has a base that one can adjust the angle of the fixture. I'd definitely paint it black though. Any suggestions/help?

080083534340xl.jpg

Edited by disney-fan-reborn

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I just noticed something on that "other" PPT that doesn't make sense. On the page where it shows the intensity values/combinations for the different colors, it shows "white" as being red-100%, green-100%, blue-100%. While this may be true for a RGB fixture, this chart does not take into account the white LEDs on the Mighty Mini. Am I the only one who has caught this? The table needs to be updated to include white.

BTW, has anyone ever seen these LED CoB called PhlatLights? This is their RGBW model... http://www.luminus.com/stuff/contentmgr/files/0/0bb87729f88ea6a7a2b465e25f32656e/miscdocs/pds_001362_rev_03_cbm_380_product_datasheet_illumination.pdf

And you can purchase them here.... http://avnetexpress.avnet.com/store/em/EMController/LED/Luminus-Devices/CBM-380-RGBW-D11-QG101/_/R-10815822/A-10815822/An-0?action=part&catalogId=500201&langId=-1&storeId=500201&listIndex=-1

Those who know more about electronics than I do will know what kind of cables they need, etc! I just thought they were super cool!

Does anyone know how many total lumens the Mighty Mini puts out when assembled?

Edited by disney-fan-reborn

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I've asked that question, and been told yes... though it doesn't say it anywhere.

I have ordered and received 10 kits from CC. The resistors in the kits I recieved are those listed in the link

http://www.holidaycoro.com/2010LSHWo...ighty-Mini.pdf

Franks instructions still have the wrong values. How do I verify if the values listed above are correct? I have asked Frank a few times in e-mail but with his shipping overload I am sure he hase been too busy to anser.

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I just noticed something on that "other" PPT that doesn't make sense. On the page where it shows the intensity values/combinations for the different colors, it shows "white" as being red-100%, green-100%, blue-100%. While this may be true for a RGB fixture, this chart does not take into account the white LEDs on the Mighty Mini. Am I the only one who has caught this? The table needs to be updated to include white.

The reason that it shows the RGB at 100% is for two reasons - one is that some people may want to turn on RGB+W to get three times the white light output and the other was that the chart was orginally designed for RGB only devices.

Does anyone know how many total lumens the Mighty Mini puts out when assembled?

I have a LUX meter but the problem becomes, what standard do you measure them by? There are a large number of factors that could affect the measurement:

* Distance from the light

* The fixture used to house the light and if it should or should not have the lens cover on

* The voltage the lights are running at

* The configuration of the dropping resistors used

* What length of cable and what size wire

* The vendor of the LED's

And then on top of that, when you put them into use on your house - that's what will have the largest effect - what color siding or brick do you have? How close to the house are they? How far a run on the cable are they located on? How did you build them? What other light pollution do you have in your display? What lights are on the house already that the flood has to "overcome"? What shape is your house?

I think seeing them in person or compared to other lights would be a better method to determine if they are right for your display. Build one or borrow one from someone else and try them on your house and see if they work for you.

I think more than the brightness of the floods themselves, is how much OTHER lights are over powering them. A candle can be pretty bright in a pitch black dark room but isn't bright in outside daylight. So, making sure that your display elements such as minitrees, megatrees, border lighting, and huge arches don't overpower the floods. If you check my video, you will see the arches overpowering the floods on the right side of the house.... just something to think about.

For me personally, I think my display, the MMFL made a huge improvement in my display:

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That powerpoint was put together back at the first of the year so I'm unsure if his website is now updated to show the current values.

As it appears you are aware, "the" post that discusses the "correct" resistor values are listed here: http://www.doityourselfchristmas.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7799 - I would recommend the reader read through the entire thread for lots of useful information - not just the resistor values.

Franks site is NOT updated.......

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OK, So I have an idea to make this really easy. And since I'm having a little trouble myself I'm hoping someone will oblige. Most everyone I think is going to be ordering components for these from mouser. Everything mouser sells has a number. Can someone please just post the B.O.M. Importer list for all the correct resistors and the screw terminals? That would make it really easy for all of us to order all the correct components (besides the LEDs). Help anyone?

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Well

The Mighty Mini boards finally made their way into Florida today. Now just waiting on the LEDs from the group buy to arrive.

Pauls's order is already in Georgia this evening, looks like Christmas in May this year.

Hopefully the MM will ready to flood the house in red, white & blue for the 4th this year

Thanks Frank

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I have to second magii. The resistor question has been asked several times and while there is a decent thread from last year on the doityourselfchristmas forums, the issue was not put to bed.

I got on E-bay and ordered a small variety of 1% 1W metal film resistors in small values (39, 47, 51, 68 ohms). The C-Leds kit provides enough 56 Ohm. The resistors were avaialble on E-bay for $3 (shipped) for 20. Easy-peasy. Seller is sunpec.

On the other forum, someone used a constant current source and found resistor values that made all the LEDs operate at or just under 100mA. There are variables that will affect this operation. Long Cat5 runs will lower the voltage supplied to the light and will lower the current as well.

Trying to cherry pick resistors to make the lights operate at 100mA sounds great, but the resistors should ultimately be derated to something like 80mA. This will result in dimmer bulbs, but ultimately will ensure a long life for the LEDs. Also, the forward voltage drop in these LEDS have a large range, which furthers the case for derating. And also keep in mind that the resistors from C-Leds have a 5% tolerance.

Anyone know if special functions like shimmer will cause DC boards (I'm using LOR) to spike voltages to the lights? We all assume that the lights will always see a max of 24V, but this is the real world.

I have a feeling that at the end of the day, we will not see any noticable difference going from, say, a 56 Ohm to 51 Ohm on one color. And if you DO see a noticable difference, measure that current and make sure you are not overdriving the LED.

OK, So I have an idea to make this really easy. And since I'm having a little trouble myself I'm hoping someone will oblige. Most everyone I think is going to be ordering components for these from mouser. Everything mouser sells has a number. Can someone please just post the B.O.M. Importer list for all the correct resistors and the screw terminals? That would make it really easy for all of us to order all the correct components (besides the LEDs). Help anyone?

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I got my boards today! YIPPIE!! That was FAST! Of course, it helps that he's shipping them from a neighboring state!

I also have to ask again: Will this halogen fixture work for the mighty mini as well?

080083534340xl.jpg

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What are the dimensions on the fixture? Can the boards fit inside? If yes, then yes! :-)

They won't fit in as nicely as the other ones specked, as the mounting holes are designed for the other ones. You would be on your own

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What are the dimensions on the fixture? Can the boards fit inside? If yes, then yes! :-)

They won't fit in as nicely as the other ones specked, as the mounting holes are designed for the other ones. You would be on your own

Good point! I didn't think about the mounting holes. I'll have to look at the fixture more closely.

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The ones I got from lowes for 5.19 each work just fine to include the mounting holes. The threads are metric so you will either need to get metric screws for stand offs or re-tap the hole to an 8/32 thread.

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Mike,

What was the Lowe's Part number for $5.19?

Was it the MQF150? Please provide a picture if possible.

The ones I got from lowes for 5.19 each work just fine to include the mounting holes. The threads are metric so you will either need to get metric screws for stand offs or re-tap the hole to an 8/32 thread.

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Back to the Resistor issue that no one seems to want to discuss...

I got my boards (thanks, Frank!), built one, and measured the current.

First, the PDF for the build instructions are at http://www.holidaycoro.com/2010LSHWorkshop/Mighty-Mini.pdf.

These instructions note that the original resistor values were wrong.

Here is what the PDF says to install instead:

R1 & R5 (Red) – 68 or 100Ω (Ce-Ce provides 100)

R2 & R6 (Green) – 56Ω (Ce-Ce provides 56)

R3 & R7 (Blue) – 39 or 56Ω (Ce-Ce provides 56)

R4 & R8 (White) – 47 or 56Ω (Ce-Ce provides 56)

Let's talk about Red for a minute. 68 Ohms vs 100... That's a huge difference, and the brightness will be noticable. I accidentally installed 56 Ohms on the red at first and the result was clearly TOO bright. I did not have any 56 Ohms lying around, so I will have to evaluate Red later, but I think 100 Ohms is going to be too big a value, resulting in dim Red.

So for Green, Blue and White, I installed 56 Ohms for each. I also made sure to distribute Warm White and White evenly, so there are 3 White amd Warm White per resistor. My power Supply was a Topward 6303D. I supplied 24.0 V to each color and this was the resulting current:

Green - 160 mA

Blue - 180 mA

White - 170 mA

Each color has 2 current paths, so that's 80mA for Green, 90mA for Blue and 85mA for White. The LEDs have a max current rating of 100mA, so with these resistor values, Green is operating at 80%, Blue at 90% and White at 85%.

Green:

Resistor has 4.48V drop across it (24V*0.08A). The 6 Green LEDs drop the remaining 19.52V, or 3.25V forward drop across each (CeCe's specs say it is 3.2 typ). For this particular board, if R=47 Ohms, the current would be 95mA.

Blue:

Resistor has 5.04V drop across it (24V*0.09A). The 6 Blue LEDs drop the remaining 18.96V, or 3.16V forward drop across each (CeCe's specs say it is 3.2 typ). For this particular board, if R=51 Ohms, the current would be 98.8mA.

White:

Resistor has 4.76V drop across it (24V*0.085A). The 6 Blue LEDs drop the remaining 19.24V, or 3.2V forward drop across each (CeCe's specs say it is 3.2 typ). For this particular board, if R=51 Ohms, the current would be 93mA.

So my findings (excluding Red) were that the smallest R value that kept current below 100mA were:

Green 47 Ohms

Blue 51 Ohms

White 51 Ohms

The PDF says R's can be as low as

Green 56 Ohms

Blue 39 Ohms

White 47 Ohms

If I had run my Blue with a 39 Ohm, I'd be looking at 129 mA - far above spec.

If I had run my Blue with a 47 Ohm, I'd be looking at 101 mA - slightly above spec.

So what does this tell us? Not a heck of a lot. There are so many things that can vary out of our control:

Resistor tolerance

CAT5 length

LED Forward Drop (will vary from batch to batch)

Operating Temperature

Power Supply quality

Any of these will end up pushing more or less current through your LED.

So, trying to home-in on exactly 100mA is a waste of time. Probably the biggest real-world factor that will affect your brightness is the CAT5 length - the longer it is, the dimmer your bulbs will be - which implies that we can use smaller R values than we normally would, but do we really want to take that chance?

CeCe's supplied values for Green, Blue and White are probably fine (56 Ohms). If you want to risk lowering them, I wouldn't go below 47 Ohms - ever.

In my opinion, CeCe's supplied R for Red (100 Ohms) is far safer than we need. PDF says 68 Ohms is fine; I have not tried this myself, but I'll take their word for it (even though I think they are very wrong on their 39 Ohms for Blue).

So, in summary:

Red: 68 Ohms (recommended by PFD)

Green: 47, 51, or 56 Ohms (I do NOT recommend 39)

Blue: 51 or 56 Ohms (I do NOT recommend 39 or 47)

White: 51 or 56 Ohms (I do NOT recommend 39 or 47)

And again, do not install the same type of White on W1-W6; mix them. In other words, make W1-W6 contain three Warm White and three White. If you don't the current will be mismatched between the two White paths and the one may end up overdriven.

Edited by brianfox

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The ones I got from lowes for 5.19 each work just fine to include the mounting holes. The threads are metric so you will either need to get metric screws for stand offs or re-tap the hole to an 8/32 thread.

Have the Utilitech from Lowes also.

I have found that 6/32 machine screws screw directly into the holes great with no tapping or rethreading

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