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12 volt RGB LED flood lights


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Has anyone else tried the LED flood lights boards from Big Clive? - http://www.bigclive.com/flud.htm

I'm using the 5-chip 100ma SuperFlux LED's purchased from e-bay.

I'm planning on adding them to our show for next year. I've already got a number of high wattage 12 volt power supplies, so this was a big factor in what I was looking for.

I'm still working on the mounting, but here are a couple of shots of the first "Test" light. (It's still a little heavy on the blue, but once I get the DC light controller built, I should be able to fix that...)

Also, here is a link to how I put it together: http://www.andersonlights.com/home/?page_id=150

Let me know what you think!

-Mark

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Edited by SlashDude
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I also bought the bigclive boards this year and have been working on soldering them together, but after emailing bigclive, I was under the understanding that it is only 120ma per channel or 360 with all LED's on.

Did I miss something?

I am using a 12volt supply.

BTW, I really like the! I am working on the enclosures as I speak!

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but after emailing bigclive, I was under the understanding that it is only 120ma per channel or 360 with all LED's on.

If you are using the single chip 20ma LEDs, (http://cgi.ebay.com/50-PCS-3mm-20000mcd-SuperFlux-White-Led-Free-Resistor_W0QQitemZ370336916627QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5639cce493) then the 120ma per channel is correct.

I'm using the 5-chip LEDs that are 100ma each (http://cgi.ebay.com/50pcs-5mm-5-Chips-White-SuperFlux-LED-100mA-52Kmcd-F-S_W0QQitemZ290371845095QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item439b82bbe7) for 600ma per color.

I'm planing for each light to have its own set of channels to increase the animation options. Also, using the Renard hardware, the cost isn't as high as other hardware.

Thanks B_Regal78!

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great looking little board!.. It says in there to only push 20ma through each LED.. I guess if you are only going to turn the units on for short periods of time you might be fine, the traces on the boards look pretty beefy.. to run 100ma per LED you will wantto make sure your resistor is high enough wattage.. or does the board require 1 resistor per LED? i didnt see if they were series or parallel wired..

-Christopher

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great looking little board!.. It says in there to only push 20ma through each LED.. I guess if you are only going to turn the units on for short periods of time you might be fine, the traces on the boards look pretty beefy.. to run 100ma per LED you will wantto make sure your resistor is high enough wattage.. or does the board require 1 resistor per LED? i didnt see if they were series or parallel wired..

-Christopher

I just saw that on BigClive's site... Oops :)

I'm in Minnesota, so don't I get a "Bonus" on amperage cooling? J/K ;)

I'm thinking there may be an issue with the common positive lead on the board. It runs from all the LEDs back to the connector on a single trace. With my configuration, I would be pushing 1.6 amps on that trace. (I should probably add a couple of "Jumpers" to help).

Depending on the load, I'm using 1/2 and 1 watt resistors. (I used http://led.linear1.org/led.wiz to generate the values. I'll post the pics later, I gotta get going.)

-Mark

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Did some research and Mark is going about this right. I have not seen the board, but some of those tracks might still be good for 2A. If you look long and hard you will come across the 5 led per unit type of LEDs The 5 dies per unit are wired in parallel so total current draw is 100mA per unit. And it appears that the board is etched in such a way that you have 3 units in series. So in the end there are 18 units per color. And that works out to 6 parallel circuits consisting of 3 units in series. So, 6 x 100mA = 600mA per color as Mark has noted. BTW each unit is rated at .5W so that would be 9 watts per color. I dont know if that it additive if you blend for white. So, does anyone know if that would be 27 Watts of lighting if RGB is blended for white? Well ya, you would have to back down the blue and green to get a true even blend for white. So, maybe 24 watts.

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Has anyone else tried the LED flood lights boards from Big Clive? - http://www.bigclive.com/flud.htm

-Mark

Ok. What was the cost per board? Very interested in this and the mm'S. What about the MR16 project he did. Wanting to do a wash in several places on my house.

Let me play stupid too (not very hard to do!! Ha!!!). You need a supply for the DC Controller AND the LED light itself???

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Ok. What was the cost per board? Very interested in this and the mm'S. What about the MR16 project he did. Wanting to do a wash in several places on my house.

Let me play stupid too (not very hard to do!! Ha!!!). You need a supply for the DC Controller AND the LED light itself???

The PCB was

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Ok.

Let me play stupid too (not very hard to do!! Ha!!!). You need a supply for the DC Controller AND the LED light itself???

Yes, you need a 12V power supply. It supplies power to both the DC controller and the LED flood. So be sure you get one that's beefy enough to handle the full load of all the LEDs turned on at the same time, plus some spare for the Controller.

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Ok. What was the cost per board? Very interested in this and the mm'S. What about the MR16 project he did. Wanting to do a wash in several places on my house.

I ordered in a bunch of MR-16's last season from wirekat. Even built the enclosures for em and everything. When I tried them outside, they just didn't have the coverage or intensity I was looking for. After seeing Gary martin's Mighty Minis over Halloween, I knew that was what I was looking for. I've got 8 of them coming for next year. As far as a cost comparrison, I know it's apples and oranges, but the MM's are going to run 45-50 bucks each. That's equivalent to about 9 MR-16 bulbs without the housings. On the MR-16's that I built, I had $50 in each fixture and it was only 5 bulbs. 5 MR-16's pale in comparison to a Mighty Mini. Just my 2cents.

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Ok. What was the cost per board? Very interested in this and the mm'S. What about the MR16 project he did. Wanting to do a wash in several places on my house.

Let me play stupid too (not very hard to do!! Ha!!!). You need a supply for the DC Controller AND the LED light itself???

Here is a comparison that was posted on another board (using standard LEDs):

attachment.php?attachmentid=30344&d=1266866386

The numbers above are based on 8 units. The boards include shipping. Resistors, mounting boxes, wiring, etc are not included as they are not generally a major cost and would be just about equal for both.

A few observations:

* The Mighty Mini is about double the light output of the BigClive board

* The Mighty Mini has RGB and white, BigClive has no white

* The Mighty Mini compensates for the low output of red by adding four more RED Leds, so I would guess that you will have to limit the current even more for the greens and blues on the BigClive, limiting their output, to have a more "balanced" color output.

* Both units are designed to mount into standard flood lights

* The Mighty-Mini is 24v which allows it to run two floods over a single CAT5 cable, I'm guessing but I think two at 12v, which the BigClive runs at, would be pushing it.

* Both LED's are 140 degree output

* The cost per light (board+LED) is just about the same - $44/$41.70

* The BigClive requires jumpers as it is not a doublesided board

* Personally I like the screw down connectors on the Mighty-Mini better but others may perfer the slide on connector that BigClive has.

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  • 4 months later...
  • 3 weeks later...

As far as the MR 16's that wirekat had. They are actually LED spots from besthongkong.

I have some of them also. THe only problem is the brightness of the red, which is to be expected. Have had to double up on the red in my display to get the same effect.

Have ordered some of the Rainbow floods, anixously awaiting the arrival. The MR 16's will still be used, but more of an accent light than a wall wash.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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