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Tim_L

2008 CDI Replacement LED Question

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Hi,

I purchased a bunch of the blue and green led's back in 2008. The ones that had the burning up problem. I did not do a display last year so I am using the 2008 replacements for the first time this year.

I added a 1w resistor plug to the ends of all of the led's as I use LOR and read where that basically replaces having to put an incandescent load on the end of the strings.

Now, down to the problem. I have already had one of the green nets fail last night which was the first night of my show. Not sure what is wrong with it, fuses are fine. It was the first of two sets connected to that LOR channel. The one connected to it, is still functioning. I didn't really follow along in PC last season regarding these replacement led's.

Is there any insight that anyone can provide as to whether these are going to be prone to failure also and if so, was/is there a fix?

Thank you in advance for any help that you can provide. Also, feel free to message me directly.

Thank you,

Tim

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The replacements are better than the originals but they also suck. The blues are the worst. They will work a while, then dim or go out entirely and then work fine when you go to replace them.

I have had better luck with the red, green and warm whites but they are not 100%.

The new lights (not the replacement ones) from last year are fine.

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I also had problems with blue mostly and some green. All mine were m5 100 ct. All of the blue got dimmer and dimmer slowly dieing thru last season. The green showed similar problems although not as much. The problem I mostly saw with the green was they would stay on too long after turned off then fade off on their own.

Needless to say I have removed ALL of the junk from the 08/09 exchange garbage.

If you would like to have a better season I suggest you replace them all now if you can.

You could contact the place you got them, but you may get the same "my lights may not meet your expectations" or some other smart ??? comment that I and others got when we contacted them last year about the junk we got in the exchange.

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It still angers me how paul handled this he should have sent replacements from the factory we thought they were coming from originally.

Yeah, we should have gotten what we thought we were paying for!!!

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Agreed, however I can't really afford to replace 72 sets of blue and green net lights @ $2,100.00, $675.00 on 36 Green M5's and another $219.00 on 12 Blue M5's. At least, not at the prices listed on the web site.

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Agreed, however I can't really afford to replace 72 sets of blue and green net lights @ $2,100.00, $675.00 on 36 Green M5's and another $219.00 on 12 Blue M5's. At least, not at the prices listed on the web site.

I understand that.

If I were you I would just plan on replacing all of them in a pre-sale from some other place. That is what I had to do.

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Yes, that is the plan. I was really hoping to convert all of my clear and colored in the presale. Hoping that I can afford to do both but I don't know, that is a chunk

of change to get spousal approval on. lol

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Yes, that is the plan. I was really hoping to convert all of my clear and colored in the presale. Hoping that I can afford to do both but I don't know, that is a chunk

of change to get spousal approval on. lol

Especially since it is an additional expense of having to replace junk you can't use.

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So, after loosing another set tonight - I decided to tear into one and take a look at it. I had a few thoughts based on something I had noticed last christmas (one plug had a LOT of water in it.....) and decided to finally check to see if that was it.

First thing I did was to break the plug apart and tear into the plug to remove the electronics board, one nice thing about the replacements is that they are not encased in epoxy, etc so it makes the breakdown somewhat painless - I did use a destructive method, as I was planning on replacing the plugs.

During teardown, I noticed that the wires from the lights were connected to the plug ends using simple friction connectors that are NOT weather sealed (thats a big problem) so after carefully removing the wires (bending the plastic till the connectors break off the circuit board) I went through and then soldered each wire into the PCB itself.

I attached a plug from an old incandescant set that has gone to that bright ball of lights in the sky, and then plugged in to test - and voila - dimly lit LEDS!!! (better than NO light before the resoldering)

I went through, and then touched each solder joint and resoldered them, and the lights got a little brighter.

After short testing with my meter of all the resistors and caps, I decided to just go ahead and replace the diodes (with 1N4007s - rated to 1000v - not sure what the originals are) and after a plug in test - the lights are back and bright as new!!!

I'm going to go grab another set, and see if the same solution works. If it does - this might be a huge part of the problem this time (not electronics, but corrosion) I am in AZ, and have lost 6 of 36 sets, so I am in a fairly dry environment. All of the lights I ordered are blue, both M5-100 and 5mm-70ct. The lights I did on this fix are the M5-100s.

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I'm confused. If you don't think it is a electronics problem why did you have to replace the diodes?

btw. I had 6 stings of these blue lights on our inside tree that had the same dim problem.

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After more playing with the LEDs to do the destruction test... they went dim on me - so - now to split the set into two "standard sets" with the middle diode bridge.

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and..... with even more checking... looks like the 1st part of the repair work have worked if I had found the bad LED in the light string........ but, adding a bridge rectified on the beginning and the middle ALSO will fix the issue (And is probably the best overall solution) Which in sense remove the voltage doubler circuit, and breaks the 100ct string into two sets of 50. I did do one more set on the solder up new plugs and that corrected that one also.

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I've got some that won't light and 5 minutes later they are on, others that are super dim, others are bright in one section dim in another. Others are simply DOA with no obvious reason. Grrrrrrrr!!!!!!!!!!

I purchased 5 cases of green nets and 5 cases of blue nets so that I can start using them as these burn out or die out

whatever the case might be. Thank you Paul for making that transaction possible. ;-)

I only have about 4 of the 100 count replacements left in green and 5 in blue. I'm not sure what I'm going to do if/when they are gone as I just can't afford to purchase any more this season without cutting into my pre-sale money for next season.

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All colors of mine with the doubling circuits are going out this season, and the Blues even of the supposedly GOOD ones are dropping like flies.

Meanwhile, my 6 year old Holiday Creations half wave lights I bought at Lowe's in an after Christmas sale are still plugging along fine. These half waves are lasting forever, dimming better, and just plain old awesome.

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All colors of mine with the doubling circuits are going out this season, and the Blues even of the supposedly GOOD ones are dropping like flies.

Meanwhile, my 6 year old Holiday Creations half wave lights I bought at Lowe's in an after Christmas sale are still plugging along fine. These half waves are lasting forever, dimming better, and just plain old awesome.

Don't toss them! There should be a simple solution that I'll have worked out shortly! (one I quit doing things like bike riding, christmas partys, getting my own display up, etc etc etc)

Rebuild cost should be about (or less than) 50 cents PER STRING!

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Thanks Frank.

I have some 1W resistors and bridge rectifiers, and plan to cut the voltage doublers off and paste them back to life. It be great to know if you have it planned and easier .

I'll anxiously await your reply!

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Now check out THIS one.

I have multi-mini LEDs on my border. I figured since the border mostly just stays on all the time, I'll use the 2008 ones here. well.... now, some of these--- strung up in series--- have half of the string flashing in sync with another channel on the same board. The whole border is on, but a couple of strings have HALF THE STRING flashing!.

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