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Lisa R.

Bad Triac ? Channel Stuck On ?

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Hello everyone, I have one controller that has one channel that is stuck in the on position. Is that a bad triac ? Is there a way for me to fix this ?hanks

Thanks !

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That happened to me once before and it was a bad triac. Just contact the mfg and I'm sure hey will send you one and you can solder it on.

LOR sent mine out right away.

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Yup, Bad triac. Just fixed one myself that had the same problem. I contacted Dan at LOR and he sent me some replacement ones; that's if you have a LOR controller. But i'm sure any of the other manufactures will be more than happy to send you some replacement parts.

Edited by Paul D

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Thanks everyone for the tips ! I will be contacting LOR tomorrow ! Isn't it the way it goes just before you need things to go smoothly !

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Thanks everyone for the tips ! I will be contacting LOR tomorrow ! Isn't it the way it goes just before you need things to go smoothly !

I live by good 'ol Murphy's Law.

Hope for the best, prepare for the worst

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I use this motto "If you perceive that there are four possible ways in which something can go wrong, and circumvent these, then a fifth way, unprepared for, will promptly develop" or if things seems to be running smooth you have overlooked something I second desoldering iron at radioshack too I use the same one and its plenty effective BUT are the triacs just plug into a socket? Thats the way i remember them So just have to remove the triac then plug back in?

EDIT sorry i have soldered so many boards lately i cant keep things straight Everything from lors to audio to light modulators Wish lor did sockets though make things easier

Edited by FrostNsnow

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When desoldering make darn certain you don't heat excessively or the trace(s) on the board will lift. My personal favorite method is a regular 25W iron and a solder vacuum pen (also sold at radio shack). This assures that the solder is removed from both sides of the board in one motion. You may need to "wet" the connection with fresh solder so it will suck up easier. Mouser Electronics will have the part you need if in a pinch.

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I found a timer that had in storage that has 28 on/off settings... so i'll just spend some time on that, so then i'll just have those molds turn on/off with a few minutes on either side... sucks, but i'm just not confident with a solder gun... it will have to wait til off season...

-chris

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This is my first year using LOR. I do not even know what a triac is, much less how to replace one. I have had my show running for about 10 nights. I bought this controller back during the early sale this year. How often do you have a triac go out on a brand new controller? Somebody please help a newbie. 12,000 LEDs, 32 channels, and 2 strands of warm white spiral lights causing my migraines. LOL

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This is a really crazy hobby, lot's of fun, lot's of satisfaction and lot's of STRESS. Like everything else, sometimes you get a bad triac. It isnt something you will have to worry about often. Controllers go years and years and years without problems. In the seven years I have been running I only have had three triacs with problems, but to reduce my stress level somewhat, I keep a bunch of spare controllers on hand. Quick fix, just unplug the channel that will make it far less noticeable. Good Luck!

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This is my first year using LOR. I do not even know what a triac is, much less how to replace one. I have had my show running for about 10 nights. I bought this controller back during the early sale this year. How often do you have a triac go out on a brand new controller? Somebody please help a newbie. 12,000 LEDs, 32 channels, and 2 strands of warm white spiral lights causing my migraines. LOL

Hope for the best and be prepared for the worst.

If you put a staple through a string of lights on your roof and short the output, it just may pop the triac before the fuse goes. Don't ask me how I know this. :unsure:

LOR sent me out a triac in a hurry then when I realized how much it takes to unhook the board from the wiring and fix it, I decided to move the output to a spare, reconfigure the channel assignments in all of my sequences and then send the controller to LOR in the off-season to make sure that it gets done right.

Try to keep a spare channel in at least one of your controllers.

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I have one stuck on my number 4 controller. All I did was plug in a wreath to that one. It still gets brighter when that channel is active, but stays on after. Not even noticeable during the show, at least not to the average visitor. But it doesn't bother me, so no problem. So my advice is to pick something that does not really interfere with your overall show, that you don't mind staying on and use that channel for that.

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I always try to leave a couple of spare / open channels in strategic spots in the display. That way you can swap the power cord around and copy the sequence for that channel to the new channel. Then fix things after the season is over.

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On the very rare occasion, the optoisolator (that little 6-legged thing near the triac) will go out as well. Never hurts to have a few spares of those as well.

Also, have heard mention of soldering GUNs. NEVER use a soldering gun on circuit boards - they create far too much heat and will cause the copper trace on the board to peel off, and also damage your new component(s). A pencil iron of 25-30 watts is best suited for this kind of work. Make certain to use Rosin-Core solder and not Acid-Core solder for obvious reasons.

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Will the bad triac cause one led light string to only be slightly illuminated (on a mega tree) the whole time the show is running and yet still flash at full brightness at its programmed times? I also have a different controller that will not flash any channels. It has good power, fuses good, firmware same version as all the others. I have six controllers in the show 1-4 and 6 all work properly but controller 5 will not respond. direct plugged in the channels for controller and all items light up properly. I even changed controllers out, so I believe it to be in computer just don't know what to fix. Thanks for your help in this in advance a million times over.

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A little late on the update but here it goes. I swapped emails with LOR and was able to correct the triac problem without replacing anything. The jumper on the upper lright corner of the box has to be removed to reset box.

1. Remove power from controller.

2. Remove jumper from upper right corner (see manual for diagram of location).

3. Return power for controller. Leave on for a minute or two.

4. Remove power from controller again.

5. Return jumper to prior location (make note to put in original location).

6. Shut down entire system (all controllers in show).

7. The controller in question will hopefully have been reset and triac will be back to factory function.

I can not guarantee that this will work for everyone but it is worth trying before buying and replacing electronic components. It costs nothing but a few minutes of your time. (I had mine done and corrected the problem in about 30 minutes total time)

Hope this helps. I may be a newbie but I am also a tightwad who likes to exhaust all FREE measures first. LOL

Merry Christmas to all.

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May be quicker to cross-reference the number off the triac with an electronic vendor like Mouser.

Does any one have a Mouser number? I would like to order a few for spares.

After looking at Mouser I think is is this one 511-BTA16-600BW.

Edited by KStatefan

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