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speedyken

Lights Still On Even When Controller Disconnects

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Hello fellow decorators,

I have a question concerning my LOR controller.

I have put up the 48 meters ropelight this weekend. The ropelight is blue and completely led's.

It works perfect but when i disconnect the pc from the LOR controller some leds still are burning, very very faint though, almost unseeable if you don't pay attention to it, but i see it :)

This is also when the pc is connected. When a sequence is running then the lights are completely off, when the channel is not been used by the controller during that time in the sequence.

Other lights (strings of 100 leds) don't do this, only the ropelight for the moment.

Now that is not that big of a problem for me but was just wondering if this is normal or if there is a problem with my controller? It's my first year i use them (3 in total). They are prepared for 220 volts europe and they work really great, no problem with them at al.

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This is the video of the testing of the ropelight ;-)

I'e tried to film and fotograph the ropelight also when the lights are very faint (from closeby) but it even doesn't show up on the camera, realy very very faint.

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You might need a ballast resistor somewhere in the LED circuit. The triacs will leak a little voltage when "off". Try adding a single resistive load like a C9 or C7 light at the beginning or end of the LED strings that don't shut off.

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Hey Speedy,

How old are your controllers? Are they Gen3 or older? I think Gen3 just came out this year.

I believe your issue is with the parasitic capacitance inherent in LEDs. When you have 100 LEDs, it is not enough to hold a charge large enough to prevent the triac in the controller from turning off (if you are not familiar with them, the main "switch" in the controller is a triac and the voltage must cross 0 volts for it turn off, this happens many times per second). Having 48 meters of LEDs probably holds enough charge to keep the triac from switching all the way off. There have been several threads on this forum about this issue.

Gen3 controllers have a snubber or "dummy load" across the triac output so this doesn't happen. If your controllers are older, then you simply have to add a snubber. This is simply a resister soldered across the terminals of a male vampire plug, and then plugged into the other end of your rope light. This resistor quickly drains the charge stored in the parasitic capacitance to allow the triac to switch off and thus the LEDs are off.

The problem you describe may be something a little different because you say they are all off when they are supposed to be during the sequence. Take another very close look with the sequence running to make sure. Then search the forums for "snubber circuit" and try it. It is very cheap to try and see if this corrects your problem.

Regards,

Dennis

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I had the same isssue last year with some of my leds. I attached a snubber and it fixed tge problem. Just do a search for LED snubber , and you will get the info you need.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

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Thanks for all the reply's for my problem. Sorry for a late answer but last weeks wether conditions didn't allow me to continue testing. But today wether was great, cold but sunny and dry (my favorite).

So now the ropelight is on channel 2, together with the blue strands of lights on the front door and garage. Strange thing is that the blue strands on the door and garage or shutting down completely. Also the testlight i placed on channel 2 (where these strands + ropelight is connected) goes off completely. With only the ropelight connected this testlight also burned very faint. But now all the lights shut down, EXCEPT the ropelight. This still burns very faint when at the moment when the channel is not in use.

@ Takoda : I bought the controllers in march of this year. They have a green light in stead off a red light when the controller is on so i suspect these are the latest gen 3? Am not shure . I also did what you asked and seems that you were right. During a sequence the ropelight also stays on very very faint at the moment when the channel is not in use.

I will now look further in to that snubber thing. I've already found some very useful info here on PC so i don't think this will be any problem.

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