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Russ

Lights On Church (E.g. Commercial-Style) Roof, How?

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While I've been decorating my home for several years, I was asked by my church to help put together an outdoor lighting display.  While it's too late to do anything over-the-top, I'm sure we can get just a roof outline before the weather turns.

 

Most of the roof is a typical commercial style, flat roof with an aluminum edge-cap.  Does anyone have experience and advice on how to affix C9 bulbs?  Seems like most commercial installations (based on a google search) glue clips on the cap, but I'm not sure that's going to fly well with the man in charge of maintenance. I'm really hoping for a clip style.  Anyone?  Wild and crazy ideas are accepted.

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10748470056_83c5986d5b_z.jpg

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Good thinking.  We did consider that in the early days of our late planning. One problem was that we have a lot of trees surrounding our church and there was no clear-cut way of deciding which trees would get lights and which wouldn't without it looking scatter-shot (or lighting them all). Also, we thought lights on the top would be more visible for passerby's.   

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How's this for and Idea.........Are any church members sheetmetal workers or furnace men with access to a sheetmetal brake?

You could use aluminum facia material and cut and bend strips slightly larger that the aluminum cap on the roof then stack drill the pieces slightly larger than the light socket so the ling and socket could slip thru the holder. The 45 degree angle at the bottom would be doubled over but kept loose then all you would have to do is run out the light strings set up the bulb and slip one end of the holder over the front of the cap then over the back of the cap to keep it in place. No glue, no nails, no roof leaks down the road  and they can be used over for the following years and cheap (Less costly). 

Heres a crude diagram to help show what I saying

 

post-9475-0-90955800-1383956904_thumb.jp

Edited by gmac

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Hot glue would probably work just fine, you could glue them directly to the building, or glue clips to it and then put the lights in the clip.

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How's this for and Idea.........Are any church members sheetmetal workers or furnace men with access to a sheetmetal brake?

You could use aluminum facia material and cut and bend strips slightly larger that the aluminum cap on the roof then stack drill the pieces slightly larger than the light socket so the ling and socket could slip thru the holder. The 45 degree angle at the bottom would be doubled over but kept loose then all you would have to do is run out the light strings set up the bulb and slip one end of the holder over the front of the cap then over the back of the cap to keep it in place. No glue, no nails, no roof leaks down the road  and they can be used over for the following years and cheap (Less costly). 

Heres a crude diagram to help show what I saying

 

I like this idea.  Thanks.   I've sent off a few emails and sent them your post with diagram.  Thanks!

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Hot Glue the clips on and after it will peel off

 

As in, a regular hot glue gun?  Do you think it will survive a harsh midwestern winter?

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It's hard to tell from the pic which side of the flashing faces out, but couldn't you just use this kind of clip that could fit over the bottom drip edge and allow the C9 to stick out 90 degrees from the wall?  

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We have done it with zip tie clips that come with double sided tape on the back. We put the clip under each light and then zip tie the light to the clip. It works pretty well and holds up ok in the Virginia winters. You will probably have a few that come loose but those are pretty easily replaced as needed.

These clips can be found at Lowes an Home Depot pretty much year round also :)

 

http://www.grainger.com/product/Cable-Tie-Mount-6EEE8?s_pp=false

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As in, a regular hot glue gun?  Do you think it will survive a harsh midwestern winter?

 

Just plain hot glue

I use the clips to give more surface area for the glue to hold

You now have a bunch of good ideas to try and see witch one will work best for your application

Good luck and post some pictures

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Thanks for all the great ideas.  We ended up going them all.  We were asked to make it something that could be removed if/when needed...so we went with commercial caulk adhesive figuring we could peel it off if necessary.  The problem is we did this on Saturday, the day because the storms hit the midwest. We figured 12+ hours of cure time would have been enough, but Sunday morning (when 2,000+ people coming/going) they lights were hanging down.
 
So we regrouped later in the week. One guy armed with a heat gun to warm the clip and the cap, another guy to apply Gorilla Glue, and a third to "clamp" it down with Gorilla tape (Gorilla Glue recommends 2 hours of being clamped) (and I was the fourth to supervise and tape pictures).  After 2 hours, the clips wouldn't move even with a fair amount of force.  I'm sure the tape will probably not last the winter, but it served it's purpose to give the glue time to cure.
 
950 Phillips LED C9 bulbs (about 500 are glued, the other with traditional shingle/gutter clips). Consuming a modest 71 watts.
 
 
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There's one section we didn't get approval for glue, as it's almost at eye level -- but gmac's idea was accepted as the best solution. Probably too late to get it done this year, but one of the laborer's who has access to the equipment, volunteered to work on some templates.
 
Thanks again for everyone's suggestion!

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