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  • Outdoor Christmas lights on homes evolved from decorating the traditional Christmas tree and house with candles during the Christmas season. Lighting the tree with small candles dates back to the 17th century and originated in Germany before spreading to Eastern Europe.
  • That big, jolly man in the red suit with a white beard didn’t always look that way. Prior to 1931, Santa was depicted as everything from a tall gaunt man to a spooky-looking elf. He has donned a bishop's robe and a Norse huntsman's animal skin. When Civil War cartoonist Thomas Nast drew Santa Claus for Harper's Weekly in 1862, Santa was a small elflike figure who supported the Union. Nast continued to draw Santa for 30 years, changing the color of his coat from tan to the red he’s known for today.
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Pastaboy62

Cat 5 Timer

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I have been using LOR for the last five years. My display consists of 60% dynamic and 40% static. The static has recently been transformed to LED. I want to control about 15 amps of power using the computer. Does anyone have any suggestions on how to? Please let me know. I'm all for x10.

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You could use a relay that has a 110vac coil and control it with an LOR channel. The diagram below shows how to wire it so one receptacle has power when the LOR channel is on and the other has power when the LOR channel is off. You plug the cord going to the relay coil into the controller channel and the other cord goes to a receptacle that is always on.

post-3272-0-06041600-1384057319_thumb.jp

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Only the relay is powered from the channel and it would be way under the 8 amps.

The second cord would be carrying all the load from the receptacle in the diagram.

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The one in the diagram is a DPDT (double pole double throw).  A DPST (double pole single throw) would work if you are only turning some thing on when the LOR channel is turned on.

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The wiring of the relay doesn't look correct.  You are using a DPTP relay.  The way you have in wired in the relay off position and in the relay on position the lights will be on.  The only thing that will happen is the lights will flicker when power is applied to the relay.

All that's needed is a SPST or DPST relay or a solid state relay (SSR),

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I see what you are saying about it not looking correct.

 

The intention with that diagram is that the breakaway tabs on the receptacle be removed between the two screws on each side. Think of it as two separate receptacles. One will be on when the relay is powered and the other will be on when the relay isn't powered. You could use one for static display elements and the other for security lights after the show. Sorry for the confusion. 

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I have been using X10 modules to set up timers for static lights for several years and they work very well. I would recommend encasing them in something to protect them from the weather though.

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I see what you are saying about it not looking correct.

 

The intention with that diagram is that the breakaway tabs on the receptacle be removed between the two screws on each side. Think of it as two separate receptacles. One will be on when the relay is powered and the other will be on when the relay isn't powered. You could use one for static display elements and the other for security lights after the show. Sorry for the confusion. 

 

 

 

OK, that makes sense.  But you only need to connect the black or "HOT" to the relay.  The white or neutral doesn't need to be switched.

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I have been using X10 modules to set up timers for static lights for several years and they work very well. I would recommend encasing them in something to protect them from the weather though.

 

Been using X-10s too.  I use the power modules or the ones with the relays to control power to my FM transmitter and static lights that I don't dim.

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