Jump to content
Did you know?
  • The original Rudolph did not have a red nose. In that day and age, red noses were seen as an indicator of chronic alcoholism and Montgomery Ward didn’t want him to look like a drunkard. To complete the original picture, he was almost named Reginald or Rollo.
  • The Christmas wreath was originally hung as a symbol of Jesus. The holly represents his crown of thorns and the red berries the blood he shed.
  • The three traditional colors of most Christmas decorations are red, green and gold. Red symbolizes the blood of Christ, green symbolized life and rebirth, and gold represents light, royalty and wealth.
  • Tinsel was invented in 1610 in Germany and was once made of real silver.
  • The oldest artificial Christmas trees date back to the late 1800s and were made of green raffia (think grass hula skirts) or dyed goose feathers. Next the Addis Brush Company used their machinery that wove toilet brushes to create pine-like branches for artificial Christmas trees that were less flammable and could hold heavier decorations.
  • ‘Jingle Bells’ – the popular Christmas song was composed by James Pierpont in Massachusetts, America. It was, however, written for thanksgiving and not Christmas.
  • Coca-Cola was the first company that used Santa Claus during the winter season for promotion.
  • Hallmark introduced their first Christmas cards in 1915.
  • The first recorded date of Christmas being celebrated on December 25th was in 336, during the time of the Roman Emperor Constantine. A few years later, Pope Julius I officially declared that the birth of Jesus would be celebrated on that day.
  • Santa Claus's sleigh is led by eight reindeer: Dasher, Dancer, Prancer, Vixen, Comet, Cupid, Dunder (variously spelled Donder and Donner), and Blixem (variously spelled Blixen and Blitzen), with Rudolph being a 20th-century inclusion.
  • Outdoor Christmas lights on homes evolved from decorating the traditional Christmas tree and house with candles during the Christmas season. Lighting the tree with small candles dates back to the 17th century and originated in Germany before spreading to Eastern Europe.
  • That big, jolly man in the red suit with a white beard didn’t always look that way. Prior to 1931, Santa was depicted as everything from a tall gaunt man to a spooky-looking elf. He has donned a bishop's robe and a Norse huntsman's animal skin. When Civil War cartoonist Thomas Nast drew Santa Claus for Harper's Weekly in 1862, Santa was a small elflike figure who supported the Union. Nast continued to draw Santa for 30 years, changing the color of his coat from tan to the red he’s known for today.
  • Christmas 2018 countdown has already begun. Will you be ready???
  • Why do we love Christmas? It's all about the traditions. In this chaotic world we can miss the "good old days." Christmas reminds us of that time.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

KneelandLights

1st Time RGB Setup Question

Recommended Posts

Last year (Christmas 2015) was my first year with doing a Christmas light display. I went with LOR and a basic 16 controller to get a taste of this addiction ;-) ... needless to say I'm hooked and wishing I had a big budget to do a ton more. Watching all the videos of your setups only makes this more addicting and gives me a hunger to do more!

So.... This year I want to jump into Smart Pixels. I've read up on this quite a bit, and know how to solder wires, and add in power supplies, extend the strings etc. I just want to start with something basic, but expandable... something simple.
Here is what I'm thinking. Could a few of you with more intelligence /experience please let me know if this simple setup will work?

LOR4 Pro running on a PC -> CAT5 thru network port -> Pre-assembled AlphaPix 4 box -> Smart Pixel RGB LED 50 Node Strings (150 node per output w/ out power injection)

Am I missing something? Like do I need a ActiDongle - Active DMX Dongle? Or any other main component? If I mount this setup on my roof all I need is to run a CAT5 and extension cord up to the box right?

I already have the FM Transmitter and outdoor speaker. I was using the LOR Mini Director MP3 Player which won't work with both DMX and LOR network at the same time, so I'll have to sell that and move to the computer setup. Anything else I should be thinking about... it honestly feels a little to simple with a pre-assembled box.

THANKS for any help!

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As for the question about the ActiDongle....the answer is NO with the Alphapix controller.  That E1.31 controller understands the commands coming from the LOR PRO software through the CAT5.  In fact, the Alphapix also has the RS485 output to push a DMX signal (same thing an ActiDongle does).  This port can be used to push 1 universe to a controller that is not E1.31. 

You are missing the powersupply, so I am assuming that is in the pre-assembled Alphapix 4 box?  And you didn't mention if this is 12V or 5V.  I have not delved into 5V setups, but I don't think you can run 150 in series without multiple power injection as the voltage drop is too much at the last pixel.  Even for 12V, 150 pix in series will be short on power at the last pixel.  What you will see is the white on the last pixel (#150) will be dimmer or off color.  The fix is easy, just run your power and ground to both ends of the 150 pix run.  Since it is all from the same power supply there is no need to cut the (+) in the middle or anything.   This will balance out the voltages and your lowest voltage pixels are now in the middle (#75/76#).  I use 150 pix as my max in planning a run and inject power to both ends.

Don't forget waterproofing those connections!  Solder and insulate the connections.  I use a lot of dielectric grease on my plugs to keep water out.  If they do get moisture in you will see a lot of weird things in the lights...staying on...not working...etc. 

The only other thing that will bite you is distance, both between the controller and first pixel and any large distances between pixels in a run.  Keep em less than 6-8' max for 12V.  If too far the data gets messed up.

Finally, when you get it all.  Plug em all in run them for 8 hours a shot for a at least a couple days.  When 1 pixel dies it may mess with the data passed to all pixels after it.  Find those weak ones before you hang then on the house as you will have to cut them out and solder in a replacement.  I had my #3 pixel crap out on a 450 pix data string that outlined my whole roof...climbing on the roof to cut out and solder in a replacement sucked!  Of my 2500 pixels last year I only had 3 fail....but, in the world of pixels we are back to "1 bulb out and it can take out the whole strand".

Rich 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

One thing to note, the cable guard boxes aren't the most water proof enclosures, especially if you mount it outside on your roof. You might want to think about something with a better seal that you could drill a hole in. Then you fill the hole with dome Great stuff foam to seal it. There's also a ton of different ideas on this if you do some youtube searching. Just remember your power supply has a fan and gives off some heat. 

I like to run my wires straight to the controller from the pixels. I don't like the use the screw on connections, it's just one more fail point. Plus you can buy bulk 3-bin wire and make your leads exactly how long you need them. My longest run is about 15 feet from the first pixel to the controller and it's fine. You can also put in a "null" pixel to extend your runs if needed, which I've personally never done. 

Because of these two things above, I'd rather just buy a controller, power supply bulk wire and the appropriate box separately. I think you'll save some money and end up with a system that works specifically for your needs. 

LOR and Nutcracker play well together, so it may be easiest to program the RGB pieces in Nutcracker. Their forum is full of helpful hints and helpful folks! 

Here is a video of a Pixlite 4 set up. It's a pretty simple design. But it lets you walk through a set up not too different from what you are trying to do. 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Like the other posts stated the Alphapix runs on E1.31 no dongles  needed ........E1.31 is a little bit of a pain to set up but you will get it. I have 3 of the Alpha pix and there OK but if you need more in the future I could look closely at the Pixlite controller, IMO there head above the AlphaPix and if HLE would have had them earlier that's what I would have used. I have 2 of the 16 units and 1 of hte 4 units. I just ran 1 string per outlet  and each outlet is a universe I feel it's easier to sequence. What hotrod said about moisture getting into the boxes  is true but all you have to do is cover them with say a plastic garbage bag......It worked for me

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 4/12/2016 at 7:26 AM, qberg said:

powersupply, so I am assuming that is in the pre-assembled Alphapix 4 box?  And you didn't mention if this is 12V or 5V.

Thanks a ton for the feedback everyone! Very helpful. Yes, Rich, the Alphapix4 "Ready2Run Assembled" has the option of having either a 12v or 5v power supply. I figured why go with 5v? Especially if I ever want to expand... and expansion is the nature of this hobby. :D So 12V it is.

On 4/12/2016 at 7:26 AM, qberg said:

I use 150 pix as my max in planning a run and inject power to both ends.

How do you inject power at both ends? Do you loop the same 150 pix line back to the beginning somehow? OR run a single wire way down to the end someplace?
Also, we could add more power into the run with a small power supply like this and have more than 150 pix from what I read/saw on videos I thought... right?? Why not do this and avoid having more controllers?

On 4/12/2016 at 7:26 AM, qberg said:

Don't forget waterproofing those connections!  Solder and insulate the connections.  I use a lot of dielectric grease on my plugs to keep water out. 

Great tip on the dielectric grease. I've used it on spark plugs, didn't think of using it here. So, you solder connection, use dielectric grease and cover with shrink wrap? Am I missing anything?

Thanks for the great tips RICH! Sorry for the follow up questions, I just want to make sure I get this right.
(more follow up to follow)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 4/12/2016 at 4:41 PM, hotrod1965 said:

One thing to note, the cable guard boxes aren't the most water proof enclosures, especially if you mount it outside on your roof.... Just remember your power supply has a fan and gives off some heat. 

WHAT? That's crazy. What's the point of the box if it's not water proof? Are you saying this is the case with all guard boxes?
OH YEAH heat from the power supply... makes sense. Don't all power supplies give off heat? Is that an issue with every setup in a box then? 
Good thing I live in a record breaking cold winter area with sub-zero -30°F like temps as a norm.

On 4/12/2016 at 4:41 PM, hotrod1965 said:

I like to run my wires straight to the controller from the pixels. I don't like the use the screw on connections, it's just one more fail point. Plus you can buy bulk 3-bin wire and make your leads exactly how long you need them. My longest run is about 15 feet from the first pixel to the controller and it's fine. You can also put in a "null" pixel to extend your runs if needed, which I've personally never done. 

Because of these two things above, I'd rather just buy a controller, power supply bulk wire and the appropriate box separately. I think you'll save some money and end up with a system that works specifically for your needs. 

I need convenience and time saving... though I do enjoy tinkering some. So I guess I'd rather have the screw on connections. Maybe I'll learn my lesson though. It sounds like easier storage too. Thanks for the tips, but IDK if I want to build my on my first attempt at Pixels.

On 4/12/2016 at 4:41 PM, hotrod1965 said:

LOR and Nutcracker play well together, so it may be easiest to program the RGB pieces in Nutcracker. Their forum is full of helpful hints and helpful folks! 

Here is a video of a Pixlite 4 set up. It's a pretty simple design. But it lets you walk through a set up not too different from what you are trying to do. 

Nutcracker... hmmmmm. It works with LOR? I thought it was "instead of" LOR? I guess I'll have to look at that some... I wonder if there is a comparison out there for what one has to offer over the other.

I haven't made up my mind yet, but the PixLite 4 vs. AlphaPix 4 look very the same in comparrison... except the PixLite is $4 more. Am I missing something in my comparison? ALSO do both do LOR?

THANKS for the info hotrod1965, and the video! Great stuff!

On 4/16/2016 at 8:07 PM, gmac said:

Like the other posts stated the Alphapix runs on E1.31 no dongles  needed ........E1.31 is a little bit of a pain to set up but you will get it. I have 3 of the Alpha pix and there OK but if you need more in the future I could look closely at the Pixlite controller, IMO there head above the AlphaPix and if HLE would have had them earlier that's what I would have used. I have 2 of the 16 units and 1 of hte 4 units. I just ran 1 string per outlet  and each outlet is a universe I feel it's easier to sequence. What hotrod said about moisture getting into the boxes  is true but all you have to do is cover them with say a plastic garbage bag......It worked for me

Okay, I said this above, but what's better about the Pixlite controller? I'm not seeing it still...

"I just ran 1 string per outlet  and each outlet is a universe I feel it's easier to sequence." Why is that easier? Is it something with the RGB software? Seems it shouldn't make a difference... maybe I'll understand once I get into it and do some programming.

Nice tip with the plastic garbage bag! Would help the snow melt off of it too!
Thanks GMAC for the response.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't really follow the alpha pix controllers, but it used to be that they had a 12month warranty, didn't have auto IP detection and they charged you for support.  A quick check on their website, looks like at least the warranty is 36 months (same as pixlite), they still charge for support, and I couldn't tell you about the software IP detection.

Here's my hard sell on the pixlite: We'll do our best to support you for free, and Advatek has great support for free. I kicked the tires on them real hard before we decided to carry their products to make sure our customers would have good support. 

 

To your above questions:

The cableguard boxes are not that great, but they are like a $10-15 box, so the are made to that price point. Great box to hang in your garage, or to add on extra water proofing (i liked the garbage bag idea). But in my video, that is a cable guard 1500, so you can see what you are getting. 

Actually, I think you will spend more time going with the screw together ends. It's really just a small set screw that holds the wire to the board. So why add on extra soldering...etc to have screw together ends. It;s just that much more than can go wrong. When ever you are building a lighting system, the fewer fail points you have, the less that can go wrong. I just run bulk wire straight from the board and solder it to the strands. One connection that way and I can make the wire the exact size I need it. Also, you can just pull out the plugs from the pixlite board, I just numbered them and left the wire in them. (The green plugs on the board)

Nutcracker/LOR. Go here for the how to's. http://nutcracker123.com/forum/index.php?PHPSESSID=rfcbpmlbtqldf1stc4fjpgldt0&board=6.0

This should get you going on using LOR and nutcracker together. Or you can switch just to nutcracker...etc. You can download nutcraker for free now to play with. Or you can buy the LOR add on to do RGB. It's really a matter of preference. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
21 hours ago, TheKneelandCrew said:

How do you inject power at both ends? Do you loop the same 150 pix line back to the beginning somehow? OR run a single wire way down to the end someplace?
Also, we could add more power into the run with a small power supply like this and have more than 150 pix from what I read/saw on videos I thought... right?? Why not do this and avoid having more controllers?

* Yes.  It all depends on your layout.  For props it is easy to do.  I use 4way wetherpak connectors.  Pos, Data in, Neg, Data out.  Inside I have the pos and neg wires connected to both ends of the runs.  My biggest element is eaves and roof outline with 450 pixels.  For this I have a central controller and single power supply.  I then have 18/4 security wire that runs along the gutter and eaves to inject power after every 100 or so pixels.  With a single power supply it doesn't matter how many times you inject it back in.  Now with multiple power supplies (my mega tree of 2000 pixels has 4 power supplies and a single controller) you have to cut the positive wire at the injection spot, but all power supplies, pixels and controller have to have the same ground!  Connecting pos and neg of 2 power supplies together can damage them.

Great tip on the dielectric grease. I've used it on spark plugs, didn't think of using it here. So, you solder connection, use dielectric grease and cover with shrink wrap? Am I missing anything?

* NO....I solder the connections, use liquid electrical tape, then shrink wrap on all my solder joints.  On the screw plugs or weatherpak connectors use the dielectric grease.  In the off-season wrap them in saran wrap or use little baggies on the plugs as they grease gathers dust and debris.  Or do as hotrod does and not use connectors....they are just another place for problems to arise.

For controllers....I have use the Pixlite 4s.  I have 3 of them and love em (one more on order from Hotrod!).  The Alphapix series came out after I had my first Pixlite.  I have not tried them as I wanted to keep all my controllers the same.  Only real difference I see is the onboard display on the alphapix.  The pixlite has software interface to see/adjust the settings.

 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have 2 pixlite 4's and they are awesome. super easy to set up and the tech support is fantastic I had a question and they back to me in an hour or less. Not gonna speak for everyone but I passed on the alphapix. You can run your LOR boxes in dmx mode off of the pixlites as well. +1 on nutcracker. I decided this year also switch to xlights and fpp little more involved but it keeps your pc safe in the house.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks guys, I'm seeing the benefits of the Pixilite16, especially with the multiple votes of confidence from you guys.
I found this RGB Controller spreadsheet by Nutcracker LINKED HERE. According to them the Pixilite16 can do 96 Universes with 48,960 channels. How is that possible with only 16 Outputs? Obviously power would have to be injected after 150 or so nodes... but if a Universe can only do 510 pixels, how can you put 4 universes per output like they are stating (see "Max pixels per SPI Output)?

ALSO: Is that because they are talking about the MkII from advateklights.com LINK HERE and NOT the version on holiday-light-express.com LINK HERE.

Almost ready to pull the trigger on my first RGB setup! Getting to know Nutcracker a bit has helped a lot. Thanks again for all the tips guys.

EDIT: I found out the MkII has a pre-sale price on it until sometime at the end of may... which it is... so I BOUGHT ONE! I'm locked in now :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The original pixlite 16 can only run 340 pixels/2 universes per output....16 outputs....5,440 total.  The pixlite 4 can run 4 universes per output for 680 pixels each, 2,720 total. 

I think you are asking, how does multiple universes work on an output?  Yes, they just keep running in order up to a max of 4...for the pixlite 4.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
23 minutes ago, qberg said:

The original pixlite 16 can only run 340 pixels/2 universes per output....16 outputs....5,440 total.  The pixlite 4 can run 4 universes per output for 680 pixels each, 2,720 total. 

I think you are asking, how does multiple universes work on an output?  Yes, they just keep running in order up to a max of 4...for the pixlite 4.

Thanks for your help. I'm actually wondering how 2 or more universes come off of the same output... string... connection. Perhaps it's setup in the software somehow and I just don't see it yet. I'm still just starting to mess with Nutcracker to see if I like it or not.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here is a screen shot out of an older manual that shows the configuration page in the Advatek Utility program that you will need to download.  In this utility you are going to give the controller its network ID and then you tell it how many pixels you have on each output.  This is for an older pixlite16 that only allowed 340 nodes/2 universes per output.  Where it says "string", that is really the output you have connected.  So for your pixlite 16 MK II you can start with String 1, Universe 1, start channel 1, 1,020 nodes.   Each universe can only be 170 pixels/nodes, so with 1,020 you have used 6 universes.  On string 2, you will start with Universe 7, channel 1.  The Universe and Channels are simply an ID for the pixels.  Each pixel uses 3 channels (1 for each color).  After pixel 170 (which is Universe 1 channels 508/509/510) the next pixel (#171 on the output) knows it is assigned Universe 2 channels 1,2,3.  It helps to build a spreadsheet to keep track of all that you have used.   

If you have 2 controllers, you will have to know how many universes you used on the first controller and then set the 2nd controller to start with a new Universe.  For example if you fill that pixlite 16 mk II with all 16,320 pixels/assigned 1-96 Universes and decide to buy a  second controller, that new controller has to start with an unused universe, 97 would work....or just skip and start with 100 to help keep it simple.   

Advatek Utility.jpg

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 4/17/2016 at 8:48 PM, qberg said:

I use 4way wetherpak connectors.  Pos, Data in, Neg, Data out.  Inside I have the pos and neg wires connected to both ends of the runs. 

I've been looking at using pigtails... Can you share a link to one of these?

I've been looking for them and all I get are 4 WIRE weather packs (like this), not 4 WAY. Or was that a typo?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Falcon F4v2 much better than alpha pix or pixlite 4. I bought one just to test. I must say best controller I've seen

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On ‎9‎/‎5‎/‎2016 at 11:48 AM, TheKneelandCrew said:

I've been looking for them and all I get are 4 WIRE weather packs (like this), not 4 WAY. Or was that a typo?

typo....sorry.  yes they are 4 wire weather pack connectors that I use and make all my own.  You can solder more than 1 wire to each terminal and make power injection pigtails.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
14 minutes ago, qberg said:

typo....sorry.  yes they are 4 wire weather pack connectors that I use and make all my own.  You can solder more than 1 wire to each terminal and make power injection pigtails.

Thanks for the quick response. That's what I was wondering.
Could you possibly take a picture of one of yours when you get a chance please? That way I can visualize what it should look like.

Also, do you add anything to the connection to keep out moisture or anything? Or are they really that weather proof?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I will see what I can find....I am pretty positive they are in totes in the crawl space. 

18 hours ago, TheKneelandCrew said:

do you add anything to the connection to keep out moisture or anything? Or are they really that weather proof?

I wouldn't say anything is weather proof.  They use a rubber seal on each wire input and have a rubber seal around the connection along with a lock.  Works good with a single wire on each pin, but where I have 2 wires on a pin the rubber rings can't seal perfectly.  It was rainy and wet last year when it was all going up and I had a section of RGBs not acting right.  I went back and checked connectors first and found moisture in the plug just prior to the bad section.  Most likely rain got in the connector during install.  I appreciate the locking plug more than anything as I don't have to worry about them becoming unplugged.  I do use "dielectric grease" on all the connectors to keep out moisture and prevent corrosion on the pins.  I had to laugh as I somehow missed the 1 connector that had moisture....it wasn't greased.  And buy the big tubes of the grease (avail at all autoparts and amazon). 

 

I have my case of connectors handy so I will try to get you a pic of what it looks like.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 9/9/2016 at 6:27 AM, qberg said:

I will see what I can find....I am pretty positive they are in totes in the crawl space. 

I wouldn't say anything is weather proof.  They use a rubber seal on each wire input and have a rubber seal around the connection along with a lock.  Works good with a single wire on each pin, but where I have 2 wires on a pin the rubber rings can't seal perfectly.  It was rainy and wet last year when it was all going up and I had a section of RGBs not acting right.  I went back and checked connectors first and found moisture in the plug just prior to the bad section.  Most likely rain got in the connector during install.  I appreciate the locking plug more than anything as I don't have to worry about them becoming unplugged.  I do use "dielectric grease" on all the connectors to keep out moisture and prevent corrosion on the pins.  I had to laugh as I somehow missed the 1 connector that had moisture....it wasn't greased.  And buy the big tubes of the grease (avail at all autoparts and amazon). 

 

I have my case of connectors handy so I will try to get you a pic of what it looks like.

Okay, I'm doing a price comparison right now. I'm pulling the trigger tonight.

I can't believe I haven't ordered yet... I finished my project setup on paper and came out with a higher cost than double my budget! :o:(  So I'm trying to shrink my plans somehow. That's hard to do when Christmas only comes around once a year.... and it's so close... and I haven't even ordered form Ray Wu yet! 

So, another important question. Can I get away with using SPT-2 (18 AWG) wire for the power to the lights?? The lights I'm buying are 18 AWG.
I have 500ft of the SPT-2 I'm not using at the moment.

Update: There is a good discussion on the Wire Size (Controller to String) thread here. Looks like it depends on how many AMPS pass through the cable. I'm going to go with my 18 AWG and some 350 Watt power supplies. I'll test and report back here. We will see what happens.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Alright. I've finally ordered my lights. Here is my list:

Is it okay to setup a vent so the box doesn't overheat or would that create moisture issues?

Any feedback on shopping list? Warnings? Missing items?
Thanks for all the previous help qberg especially!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You could use the SPT-2 wire, but it is a bit bulky due to the heavy insulation on the wire.  For RGB stuff I was just using the 18 AWG 3-wire from the vendor, like the wire that the rgb nodes are soldered to, but last year I stumbled on "security wire".  I like it better as the individual wires are insulated and then all the wires are inside a plastic jacket for added durability.  Works great for the power injection runs along my gutters, although it is stiffer than the plain 3-wire I was using.  I will be using this stuff for all my projects in the future.

It is like this stuff....although you can shop around and find a better price and it also comes in a shielded version.

 http://www.tektel.com/PLC4503/Security-Burglar-Alarm-Cable-18Awg---4C-Stranded-500Ft-White.html

There are also versions with 6 strands...the advantage here is you can run dual power wire pairs and minimize running separate wires for power injection.  I have this set up for my landscape lights.  First 20 run off one power pair and the second 20 run off the second power pair.   

sorry....I still owe you pics of my connectors

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How do you find the security wire holds up outside through the winter?  Looks like it is designed for indoor use.  A fair amount cheaper then buying spt-1 cord plus you get more wires.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
17 hours ago, ccrowder said:

How do you find the security wire holds up outside through the winter?

The individually insulated wires are insulated just the same as the rgb pixel wires.  The wire cores are stranded wire, but a little heavier gauge strands than pixel wire.  The exterior jacket is quite thick too....heavier than the cat5 jacket.  I am in NC so I see a lot of rain in the winter and not much snow and it held up great.  I grew up in MN and I think it will hold up great.  I found my first batch at a local electronic/security store that sold it by the foot.  If you have a store like that locally just go get a small piece and check it out.  This stuff is designed for low voltage applications just the same as the wires on our pixels...the SPT wire is designed for 120V applications.  I looked to see if I had some left over scrap from last year, but I couldn't find any.

My biggest threat with my stuff is squirrels.  Ate through a couple of my pixel wires.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...