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  • The original Rudolph did not have a red nose. In that day and age, red noses were seen as an indicator of chronic alcoholism and Montgomery Ward didn’t want him to look like a drunkard. To complete the original picture, he was almost named Reginald or Rollo.
  • The Christmas wreath was originally hung as a symbol of Jesus. The holly represents his crown of thorns and the red berries the blood he shed.
  • The three traditional colors of most Christmas decorations are red, green and gold. Red symbolizes the blood of Christ, green symbolized life and rebirth, and gold represents light, royalty and wealth.
  • Tinsel was invented in 1610 in Germany and was once made of real silver.
  • The oldest artificial Christmas trees date back to the late 1800s and were made of green raffia (think grass hula skirts) or dyed goose feathers. Next the Addis Brush Company used their machinery that wove toilet brushes to create pine-like branches for artificial Christmas trees that were less flammable and could hold heavier decorations.
  • ‘Jingle Bells’ – the popular Christmas song was composed by James Pierpont in Massachusetts, America. It was, however, written for thanksgiving and not Christmas.
  • Coca-Cola was the first company that used Santa Claus during the winter season for promotion.
  • Hallmark introduced their first Christmas cards in 1915.
  • The first recorded date of Christmas being celebrated on December 25th was in 336, during the time of the Roman Emperor Constantine. A few years later, Pope Julius I officially declared that the birth of Jesus would be celebrated on that day.
  • Santa Claus's sleigh is led by eight reindeer: Dasher, Dancer, Prancer, Vixen, Comet, Cupid, Dunder (variously spelled Donder and Donner), and Blixem (variously spelled Blixen and Blitzen), with Rudolph being a 20th-century inclusion.
  • Outdoor Christmas lights on homes evolved from decorating the traditional Christmas tree and house with candles during the Christmas season. Lighting the tree with small candles dates back to the 17th century and originated in Germany before spreading to Eastern Europe.
  • That big, jolly man in the red suit with a white beard didn’t always look that way. Prior to 1931, Santa was depicted as everything from a tall gaunt man to a spooky-looking elf. He has donned a bishop's robe and a Norse huntsman's animal skin. When Civil War cartoonist Thomas Nast drew Santa Claus for Harper's Weekly in 1862, Santa was a small elflike figure who supported the Union. Nast continued to draw Santa for 30 years, changing the color of his coat from tan to the red he’s known for today.
  • Christmas 2018 countdown has already begun. Will you be ready??? Why do we love Christmas? It's all about the traditions. In this chaotic world we can miss the "good old days." Christmas reminds us of that time.

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    Ok, I know this was answered before, but I searched and could not find the answer I'm looking for.

    1. Before I punch a thousand holes in my Coro drawing, what seems to be the best spacing between the mini's?

    2. What seems to be the best drill bit size to use?

    Any help would be much appreciated.

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    1) I like to use 1/2", 3/4", and 1" spacing depending on the detail of the item. 1/2" is hard to do sometimes so I do most of mine with 3/4" spacing.

    2) I don't remember the exact drill bit size, it is usually 2 sizes smaller than the bulb. You want the bulb it fit somewhere between snugand tight.

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    For the coro I've done, I've just used an awl, rather than a drill. I poke a small hole from the front, just to determine positioning (easier for me to layout on the front, rather than backwards on the back). Then I poke the awl all the way through to the handle on the back. This gives a "snug" fit for the bulbs, and seems to work well.

    As for spacing, I generally go to great pains to make sure I don't have any extra bulbs. So I usually take my area, and try to make it fit into groups of 50 or 100.


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    John Pidliskey wrote:

    An Awl? Not sure if that would work for me. The Coro I have is 6 mil. Thicker than the standard 4 mil I think most use due to the cheaper price.

    Because it is thicker, I would need to get the socket through the back all the way through to the front to seat the bulb in.

    Ah, I use the thinner stuff (works fine, if you reinforce it on the back), and just poke the bulb itself through.


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    I make all my drawings on the back. I use a pencil and dry erase marker so I can change the drawing as needed to maximize all of the bulbs. After the design is final and all the bulb holes are marked I go back with a black permanent marker and retrace the design. I also make notes on the back of the coro, so I can organize lights in groups for animation. The notes are helpful when trouble shooting bad bulbs during the season. The lines can not be seen from the front and it doubles as a technical drawing on the back.

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