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Getting power to multiple blow molds


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Hi all.  I was wondering how everyone gets power to their blow molds - especially displays with a lot of them.  We're finding it challenging to figure out how to run a bunch of extension cords and triple taps, since each blow mold requires its own dedicated outlet/plug-in.  Does anyone have a different way of doing this?

 

Thank you!

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I been using vampire plugs and SPT-1W wire for many years I had good luck with them. The wire is good up to 7amps I try to keep any one cord less than 5 amps = 600W. Below pictures are some of the cords I have made up and the parts needed to make more cords up. I would recommend trying it out. I use Action lighting for my plugs and holiday lights express for SPT-1W wire. If you want to try it out on small scale/cost go to action lighting order 100ft of wire and some in-line plugs. And see if you like the results. The choir stand uses one wire 40’ long with 24 in-line plugs.

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I've heard about vampire plus for ever, but I never considered using them for my blow molds, which tie up way too many six, nine, and 15 foot extension cords.  I'll definitely start working on those for this year.  Thanks!

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I try to use LEDs  that way you can run many molds off of one cord run, then I just buy cheap cords from walmart. Im guessing the vampire plugs would be the way to go but I like changing up the display once in a while and that would change spacing.

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6 hours ago, Toni272 said:

Thanks!  Vampire plugs and wires have been recommended by several people - we definitely need to give it a try!  And I absolutely LOVE your choir stand set up!

Thanks the choir is one of my favorites  too. I use the same SPT cords for Halloween and Christmas. That why some cord have extra plugs in-line so that I can use same cord for both. And every year I change it up somewhat. On some cords I may use half of the plugs and on others all the plugs. I do add labels to most of the cords so I know where they go.

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Also I switched most all of my blow molds to LED. These are the ones I use they fit in the old general foam lamp holders. These “40W” ( 300 lumens ) compared to old incandescent  25W bulb (250 lumens). After switching to all LED I was able to cut power from 25-30amps to 6-9 amps. Also I keep a lookout on clearance section at Home Depot for LED bulb. 

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I forgot to mention I also like using the SPT-1 C7 sockets. General foam light cords are SPT-1 wire. So I add more light to some molds like Noel candles (add socket/light for Noel part of the mold. GF santa sleigh (add to body of sleigh). I also added lights to santa sleigh reindeer for noise and more light in the body. I use some liquid electric tape( see pic below) on the end not used of SPT-1 wire after the sockets.

If your like me you picked up blow molds with no cord. I made up some male plug SPT-1, 5ft of SPT-1wire, and C7 socket SPT-1. I just tape the light cord to the stake in the middle of the blow mold. Attached is one light cord with C7 the other is a 40watt LED bulb (uses 4.5watts)

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Below is the light cord I made for batt that came with no light cord. I made the cord longer 15ft.

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Edited by Scott Rob
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  • 2 weeks later...
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On 7/29/2019 at 3:59 PM, Toni272 said:

Hi all.  I was wondering how everyone gets power to their blow molds - especially displays with a lot of them.  We're finding it challenging to figure out how to run a bunch of extension cords and triple taps, since each blow mold requires its own dedicated outlet/plug-in.  Does anyone have a different way of doing this?

I like to think of it as a tree structure.  Start with the heavy duty cords (12-14 gauge) and put those heavy duty triple taps in line between them.  Then branch off to your smaller cords.  With molds you can use the "household" type cords.  Plug in 2 'molds and another cord on the end of each one.

On 7/29/2019 at 9:20 PM, Scott Rob said:

I been using vampire plugs and SPT-1W wire for many years I had good luck with them. The wire is good up to 7amps I try to keep any one cord less than 5 amps = 600W. Below pictures are some of the cords I have made up and the parts needed to make more cords up. I would recommend trying it out. I use Action lighting for my plugs and holiday lights express for SPT-1W wire. If you want to try it out on small scale/cost go to action lighting order 100ft of wire and some in-line plugs. And see if you like the results. The choir stand uses one wire 40’ long with 24 in-line plugs.

Of course you want to be safe but as a kind of general rule of thumb standard sets of C7 and C9 Christmas lights have 25 bulbs and they use a smaller gauge wire so don't sweat it too much.

I like HLE and have ordered from them before (great customer service) however, the best zip cord (aka SPT) is from Creative Displays because theirs is rated for outdoor use meaning that it has UV inhibitor in the insulation.  This means it will last longer out in the Sun and be safer since it won't get brittle.  I'm pretty sure none of the other vendors offer zip cord with UV inhibitor (which is rated SPX).  Also, I would suggest that unless there is a huge difference in price order plugs and wire from the same vendor to save on shipping.  And of course buy during the pre-sales at the beginning of the year to get the best price.

On 7/30/2019 at 8:11 PM, Scott Rob said:

Let me know if you have any questions. Also I try hard to make sure when making a cable up to keep (- and +) the same through all the outlets on the cable. Good luck!

The neutral wire should be the one with the ribs on it.

On 8/3/2019 at 10:26 PM, Scott Rob said:

I forgot to mention I also like using the SPT-1 C7 sockets. General foam light cords are SPT-1 wire. So I add more light to some molds like Noel candles (add socket/light for Noel part of the mold. GF santa sleigh (add to body of sleigh). I also added lights to santa sleigh reindeer for noise and more light in the body. I use some liquid electric tape( see pic below) on the end not used of SPT-1 wire after the sockets.

If you're like me you picked up blow molds with no cord. I made up some male plug SPT-1, 5ft of SPT-1wire, and C7 socket SPT-1. I just tape the light cord to the stake in the middle of the blow mold. Attached is one light cord with C7 the other is a 40watt LED bulb (uses 4.5watts)

The Gen Foam (and other brand) C7 cordsets are SPT-1 wire however they are a smaller gauge.  The newer ones are 22 gauge instead of the 18 gauge that the sockets are intended for.  Have you found the sockets to work ok on the smaller gauge wire? 

I am not knocking your method of making replacement cords but I thought I would share that  you can get sockets that have the metal clips on them although they are not as readily available (and they cost a little more).

https://www.nationalartcraft.com//subcategory.asp?gid=1&cid=27&scid=27

https://www.grandbrass.com/category/lamp_sockets-e_12_candelabra_lamp_sockets-e_12_snap_in_sockets/lamp_sockets-e_12_candelabra_lamp_sockets/

On 8/23/2019 at 5:41 PM, Scott Rob said:

I am at the dollar tree and they have LED bulbs for a buck.

I don't men to be a naysayer but I bet they aren't very bright!

TED

Edited by TED
to add more bulbs!
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Ive daisy chained 6ft and 12ft extension cords from blowmold to blowmod for years, never had any problem as long as you use cfl (or other low watt bulb) bulbs. Granted, when i display over 100 blowmolds then i run cords around the side of my house to plug into different circuits.  Never blown a fuse once.

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  • 3 weeks later...

I toke a few picture of STP1 wire and set up. The sheep and shepherd use one cord with 8 of C7 sockets and 4 outlets. Also I use C7 yard stakes and wrap the plug on them so that the plugs stay a few inches off the ground. I have found it cuts down on tripped GFCI outlets.

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  • 3 weeks later...
Finish up most of choir stand I took some picture of how it looks in works and then everything zip tied up. Once I move it from under deck I will add Noel candles.
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How long did it take for you to get all those choir molds? I'd like to have that but know it will take time and money.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

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