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  • The original Rudolph did not have a red nose. In that day and age, red noses were seen as an indicator of chronic alcoholism and Montgomery Ward didn’t want him to look like a drunkard. To complete the original picture, he was almost named Reginald or Rollo.
  • The Christmas wreath was originally hung as a symbol of Jesus. The holly represents his crown of thorns and the red berries the blood he shed.
  • The three traditional colors of most Christmas decorations are red, green and gold. Red symbolizes the blood of Christ, green symbolized life and rebirth, and gold represents light, royalty and wealth.
  • Tinsel was invented in 1610 in Germany and was once made of real silver.
  • The oldest artificial Christmas trees date back to the late 1800s and were made of green raffia (think grass hula skirts) or dyed goose feathers. Next the Addis Brush Company used their machinery that wove toilet brushes to create pine-like branches for artificial Christmas trees that were less flammable and could hold heavier decorations.
  • ‘Jingle Bells’ – the popular Christmas song was composed by James Pierpont in Massachusetts, America. It was, however, written for thanksgiving and not Christmas.
  • Coca-Cola was the first company that used Santa Claus during the winter season for promotion.
  • Hallmark introduced their first Christmas cards in 1915.
  • The first recorded date of Christmas being celebrated on December 25th was in 336, during the time of the Roman Emperor Constantine. A few years later, Pope Julius I officially declared that the birth of Jesus would be celebrated on that day.
  • Santa Claus's sleigh is led by eight reindeer: Dasher, Dancer, Prancer, Vixen, Comet, Cupid, Dunder (variously spelled Donder and Donner), and Blixem (variously spelled Blixen and Blitzen), with Rudolph being a 20th-century inclusion.
  • Outdoor Christmas lights on homes evolved from decorating the traditional Christmas tree and house with candles during the Christmas season. Lighting the tree with small candles dates back to the 17th century and originated in Germany before spreading to Eastern Europe.
  • That big, jolly man in the red suit with a white beard didn’t always look that way. Prior to 1931, Santa was depicted as everything from a tall gaunt man to a spooky-looking elf. He has donned a bishop's robe and a Norse huntsman's animal skin. When Civil War cartoonist Thomas Nast drew Santa Claus for Harper's Weekly in 1862, Santa was a small elflike figure who supported the Union. Nast continued to draw Santa for 30 years, changing the color of his coat from tan to the red he’s known for today.
  • Christmas 2018 countdown has already begun. Will you be ready???
  • Why do we love Christmas? It's all about the traditions. In this chaotic world we can miss the "good old days." Christmas reminds us of that time.

tng5737

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About tng5737

  • Rank
    New Member
  • Birthday 01/06/1981

Profile Information

  • Location
    missouri
  • Biography
    Noob, just starting with animated display
  • Interests
    computers, electronics
  • Occupation
    programmer
  • About my display
    still in planning stages
  1. You could use flourescent tube covers like these; https://www.1000bulb...las-100300.html and then spray them with this http://www.homedepot...catalogId=10053 then string your lights inside the tubes
  2. Well, I started thinking about a similar approach - instead of cutting out the flakes just leave them in say a 20"square then build a simple wood frame with dados cut near the top to slide the coro into. however, I was going to just place a flake pattern on the coro and spray the whole thing with flat black paint like Krylon after it dried I'd remove the pattern which would leave a white flake shape in the center then jus t drill and put the lights into that! when you get yours done I'd like to see some pix if possible!
  3. I thought I'd upload a few photos. Not sure how many of these I will make because with the strings attached they are really flimsy. Enlarged the pattern to approx 18" then made a template out of 1/4" mdf Next I used a router with a flush trim bit to make the coro flakes and drilled 3/16" holes for the lights. I added four lights to make it an even 100 ct. One is in the dead center and the other three I spaced about a quarter of the way in on every other leg. Next added the led string and secured with hot-melt glue This is a pix of the led lights from the front. as you can see they don't stick out very much. This is a photo of the lighted flake - they are really bright. Pretty sure these wouldn't survive the winter on the roof, but I might make a few for the front of the house.
  4. I use the Weller WLC100 Soldering Station which I purchased at Amazon I believe it is around $45. It is not real fancy but for normal soldering tasks I set the dial at '3' If I have to solder to ground planes I crank it up to '4' works great!
  5. I took your pattern up to my local copy center and had them enlarge it to be approx 18". Next I used light adhesive to glue it to 1/8" mdf and cut the outline out with a scroll saw. I mod'd it a bit in order to use 100ct strings. Each leg now has 16 lights. This will be my pattern to either hand cut or route the coro flakes using a pattern bit. Still trying to figure out whether to use minis or 5mm led lights. IF I use the minis then all I have to do is drill 3/16" holes and shove the bulb thru. The leds are more problematic since they don't protrude thru the other side very much. I tried back-cutting the holes but it leaves the coro too weak and probably wouldn't hold up. The alternative is to drill holes large enough to put the whole led thru and simply glue it in place. I will use shelf brackets attached to the back and mount the other end on baords so they sit at an appropriate angle for the roof. At any rate just wanted to give you an update on my little project. thanks for supplying the pattern!
  6. thanks for the pdf - you just saved me a bunch of time!
  7. BTW, how do you attach the 3D border around the coro-flakes. Are they ziptied on or glued?
  8. visited your site and looked over the projects page. I think I will try your method . thx
  9. I only found one source of flakes the around the size I wanted was a place called 'SnowFlakesInMotion' Unfortuneately, they are out of stock (maybe forever). If you offered a kit RGB snowflake, how would you handle the addresses? In the manual for the corostars it says you need a special unit to assign adresses to the unit.
  10. Any chance you would also offer these for 5mm LED lights? I read your post from July (in the link you ref'd) asking if there was any interest in that product. I read the instruction about the coro RGB stars and it seems like with all the tools and other parts it would be a rather expensive solution. My ideas was to have twelve flakes (16-24" each) on the roof half of them would be white the other half blue, but I might just put both blue and white LEDs into each for a little more flexibility! I like your coro stars but they seem like they are meant for level ground. Not sure what you would do with the angle of the roof.
  11. For 2011 I would like to put some snowflakes on my roof. I want to use coro for this but from what I read cutting shapes in coro is difficult since you are going against the flutes. Does anyone have any experience doing this? What tools would I need?
  12. a few comments: Take a serious look at DLA (www.diylightanimation.com) they have a coop going on right now for their Lynx Express otherwise known as LE. You have to 'introduce' yourself in the new members section first in order to get full benefit of the site. The price for a 16 channel LE should be around $65. Look under 'Current Coops' at the bottom of the home page for details. They are a kit so you'll have to put it together yourself. I have built a number of his kits and the quality is first rate! Also factor in the fact that you'll need to get a case and some wires. Most guys use the Keptel CG-1500 demarc case for this. The cords can be gotten from monoprice.com or just get some extension cords from your local big block store (Lowes or HomeDepot). Take a look at DLA's wiki site to get an idea of what you'll be up against. They have the assembly manuals there and I must say that if you have problems after the build they guys will do everything they can to get you going. Concerning Revival, look around at their forum, you won't see a lot of activity there (probably because they are new)! That means that if you have any questions you won't have a large community to help answer them. I have contacted Revival about some product questions and got very quick responses. Be aware that you will be limited to using the Sequencing software which comes with the pkg. I think that LightShowPro is working on adding their controller to their program sometime next year. Also, I believe that LOR has a sale coming up this Feb. One thing about LOR controllers is that each channel can handle more current that say the LE so you'll want to pay attention to the spec on whatever you purchase. (IF you will be using LED lights this will not be much of a concern, since their current draw is so little.) LOR also has kit products so you could get their 16 chan controller and build it yourself. Again, factor in the cost of the case and cords and heatsink into your cost. Hope this helps!
  13. How large are the 4 count flakes? I am looking to put some on my roof for 2011 and prbably want to stay in the 1 - 2 ft range size-wise.
  14. Looks great! How did you "space" your spirals? Also, how did you construct the head of the tree where the lights attach?
  15. Does anyone have any experience with the Revival Control systems? They seem like nice controllers but their site forums are empty - so I am wondering if they are just a new website or if perhaps only a few people use these devices. They are 40 channel devices and the software comes free with the controller. Any comments would be welcome.
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