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Jim H

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Everything posted by Jim H

  1. Ventura CA store wiped out also- except- there seems to be a lot of Justin Bieber Xmas wrapping paper left over.............
  2. Sounds like another job for LED KEEPER
  3. On during the show times only. Don't like the idea of powering something when not needed. Combo of safety concerns and energy savings. IMHO, Enjoy the Season!
  4. I have been using this for the last 3 years with no issues at all--- http://www.monoprice.com/Product?c_id=102&cp_id=10239&cs_id=1023904&p_id=4043&seq=1&format=2 Shipping is reasonable.
  5. If you go the 2X4 (or 2X3) route- you might want to add a couple cross braces just to keep the 2 X's from separating. Don't need any thing fancy, maybe just a couple squares of 3/8 plywood every 1/3 of the span. Good luck,
  6. I don't think PVC pipe would handle the traffic by itself- especially if you are in a cold area. Think about 1" PVC (for weather protection) with a 2X4(laid flat) on either side of the PVC for crush protection.
  7. RE: #9- hard to say without looking at the old sequence. BUT- In the 'old' or 'existing' sequence- 1- Edit/ Preferences/ "DMX Preferences" should be selected 2- look how the channel in question is set-up. The colors should be sequenced via the "Color Fade" tool ("O" key). The Color Fade tool should be set for "DMX"(at the bottom of the tool) Note that the color selection now has a cross-hatch on it to signify "DMX mode". The DMX channel line cells "On's", fades, etc should have that DMX crosshatch. If you don't use the DMX Color fade to set-up the DMX(smart and dumb) channels, you can get an error message in Listener and the DMX controller might shut down.
  8. Lee- and others- the Multicast 239,255.0.5 (to 8) is E1.31 standard networking. the 169.254.74.73 is for communicating with the controller set-up page ONLY. Weitzeld- go back into LOR - change the Multicast IP's to default (note that the last digit will be the universe #) While you are there make certain that the Listener is 5568. Do as FB indicates. Good Luck and don't pull your hair out over this. Seems there is always set up issues that have to be worked through. Good screen shots on your first post.
  9. Ed- if the C7 on the roof are LED then yes, a snubber might help. (resister/ Glade/ incan C9, all work)
  10. Do a topic search on snubbers. Many, many discussions. Basically it's a male plug that has a resistor across the poles. That many strings actually build up a charge in the wire and LED's and the snubber helps dissipate that built up charge. Usually, but not always, placed at the end of the last string. And YES, you can use a Glade warmer. Some guys use the pine scent.
  11. I have made many purchases from Ray Wu. I just used PayPal and have experienced no issues.
  12. NO!!! of course if you are a fan of smoke and sparks, go right ahead............
  13. Strictly Lights- You are not really giving us any information to work with. Have you watched the set-up videos on the HolidayCoro website? http://www.holidaycoro.com/Enttec-Pro-Compatible-DMX-Dongle-p/53.htm
  14. Rely on the written spec's and not on the "look's" PM me with your address and I'll send you one. (gratis) Regards, JH
  15. Lance- there is a "period" at the end in that link. should be http://www.kwikclip.com/ I have used something very similar and for me they work very well. The ones I get have a threaded socket at the bottom- you screw a painters pole into it then tip it up to install the clip onto a 2x4 or 2X6 rafter tail. HD, Lowes, Target all had them last season. I do use your clip to mount lights/ holiday trim onto the front door frame. Kinda have to be careful as the clip can leave marks on finished wood.
  16. and to double sure- use a a Kill-a-Watt meter.
  17. Hi Sean, Wow! Nutcracker has certainly evolved in just one year's time!! Big Thank You Sean, Matt, and Frank. Do you know of any "Help" or instructional information on using xLights itself? Of course you have provided plenty of documentation on the Nutcracker part of it but is there anything on scheduling, converting, etc?
  18. Columbus27- Yes that will work BUT with a catch (always a catch). Sets like this are great for discovering what you need for the first use, but there is usually not enough for further projects and there will be a lot more parts in there that one will never use. I think most users will have a store like Radio Shack around. They usually have a small parts cabinet where you will find the nylon stand-offs (1/4" to 3/8" will do) and the nylon screws to fit. Enjoy the project!
  19. Stand-offs are the way to go (IMHO) I would suggest that you use the nylon ones and also nylon pan head screws to attach the circuit board to the nylon stand-offs. Short stand-offs will work just fine, don't really need that big of a gap for air flow. Good Luck!
  20. Why Not!! Toss a strand of icicles on a few low branches and see if you like it. I think it might work out very nicely. One issue (and only if you're picky) most icicle strands come with white wire (usually local store bought) Green wire strands can be gotten from many on-line vendors. I've done business with http://www.holiday-light-express.com/Icicle_LED_Christmas_Lights-70.php a few times with good results. Don't forget to post some pictures! The rest of us want to know the results! Enjoy!
  21. http://nutcracker123.com/nutcracker/releases/
  22. I have had good luck using PVC for arches. One thing to consider: "Forcing" a bend in PVC may look good today but give it a bit of time in storage and that nice dome shape will start to turn into a high arch as the 'legs' start to straighten out. What I did to "lock in" the bend was to first draw out the arch on a sheet of plywood and outlined the pencel line with screws(outside edge- every 6") I then plugged one end of the PVC and poured HOT WATER in the open end. (let it sit a minute, drain, and REPEAT couple times) The PVC was then loose enough to be forced against the screw pattern and be held by a second set of screws on the inner side. A heat gun was then used to soften the PVC further and remove any memory of being straight. Let the PVC cool (or douse it w/cold water) Suggest you make your arch template a bit smaller than needed. The PVC does tend to 'spring" open a bit. The form insulation for 'sections' sounds like it will work well. Suggest you glue the long edge slit closed before wrapping to lessen collapsing (they usually come with a glue edge and pull-off tape) Usual disclaimer of HOT WATER and HOT PVC does BURN so use appriate precautions. Enjoy the project!
  23. Rob, I'm no experience with S.E. Pixel kit but I do believe that controlling DMX channels requires LOR S3.5 Advanced. Mode 1 and Mode 2 are what you would be using to control the nodes individually. I have used S.E. Rainbow Floods and Seasonal Entertainment were quite helpful with an issue I had. After upgrading your LOR S2 to S3A, you might want to give the S.E. folks a call. Regards, Jim
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