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About kamahilights

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 09/29/1952

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  • Location
    Hawera, , New Zealand
  • Interests
    Computers - Electronics - Music - Family and CHRISTMAS LIGHTS
  • Occupation
    Automation Engineer
  1. Our mains in New Zealand and Australia is 230/240 volts . . . we use 110v to ring telephones. :giggle: What do you think we run our LOR controllers on ??????:santasmileyitty: P.S. Only possible way for the US to use 230v in / 115v out would be to supply one of your 230v lives to one side of the board, common to neutral and the other 230v live to the other side. My understanding that your 230v is actually centre tapped with this centre tap being your neutral.
  2. Hi Joel! Its John here from New Zealand - great to see you here! Cheers

  3. Its more the other way around - you yanks are BEHIND China and NZ Time - as I write this I am watching the night news on Monday night - buts it still Sunday night in LA! Yep, I have done my 10 hours work for Monday and you guys haven't even got out of bed! Our friend from China will be having afternoon tea after having worked 8hr or more while you lot are sleeping!
  4. You will eventually kill them . . . . and you are right - leds will take double current abuse for hours - normal lamps would blow in seconds. You need to limit max current to ma through each led. Danger with one common resistor is different colours have different Vf (Voltage Forward value) and as they heat up (yes, heat is a LED's worse enemy!) the current will change differently. I'm naturally not familar with what is sold there, but if they are similar to ones sold here the ONLY current limiting is the saggy power supply i.e. the dry cell batteries. I half stuffed a set here trying out re
  5. This DVD rocks! And the service from Mike is AAAA+++++. You see, not many US suppliers will ship to NZ! In fact I contacted another US supplier as to the shipping cost to NZ. Never heard a reply! Then I thought could I order it and get it sent to Mike and he send it with Santa Symphonies. He agreed and still only charged the normal shipping. Amazing! But wait, there's more! The cost of shipping was not as much as www.santasymphonies.com calculated it so Mike has just informed me that my credit card has been credited with this sum! Mike, you rock!!!! Thank you so very very much!
  6. In fact there will be LESS heat with a limit resistor! Heat = watts and Watts = Volts x amps. So from my tests - No resistor - 120v x 30ma = 3.6w With Resistor - 120v x 20ma = 2.4w? That's is what kills the leds -heat!!!! . . . Gee, I buy resistors for 1 cent each . . . . What about those with static shows?
  7. Re: retrofit C7/9 led EQUIPPED lamps. We dont have them here but . . . There are 2 ways of ensuring the max current of leds is not surpassed over the "normal" variation in supply voltage: a) Use a dropping or limiting resistor, which should have 20% of the voltage drop across it to enable it to act as a "ballast" or Use a 'current source" set to the nominal LED current. This can be as simple as a 3 terminal regulator and a resistor. This circuitry will try to maintain a constant current thru the led(s) over quite a wide voltage range - may be from 20 to 120 volts! Guess what happens wh
  8. I hope I haven't offended anyone - come on, you have to have a laugh at it - after all, it actually came from an Aussie - the same country that gave us a hard time when neither of our main two polictial parties won our last election, and there was a period of 2 or 3 weeks when we had no victor until "Auntie Helen" hoped into bed with some of the small parties to get a majority. The majority of the country DIDN'T vote for her so don't hold that against us for her anti US policies!
  9. Dont know if this is the right forum, but it is words of wisdom? You will hear in due course, but because of the time difference's (we are the first to see each new day in NZ) we have already got this important annoucement from John Cleese and I quote: Britain is Repossessing the U.S.A. A Message from John Cleese to the citizens of the United States of America: In light of your failure to nominate competent candidates for President of the USA and thus to govern yourselves, we hereby give notice of the revocation of your independence, effective immediately. Her Sovereign Majesty
  10. Hi Bill thanks for the PM. I am not familar with your "buzz box" but if it is like the "Lighterkeeper Pro" they should be kept away from LED's. They work by applying a high voltage to the light string which when a normal lamp's filiament is blown will jump the gap and flash where the faulty lamp is. I am only going by hearsay as they ain't much use in NZ - all our lights are low voltage. This high voltage put across a LED set will more than likely destroy the SEMICONDUCTOR junction of a few leds. The effect will be a bit like your radio being hit with lighning. Also realise that different l
  11. Finally I got around to doing some LED string tests at work yesterday. I have often commented about how manufacturers seem to be destroying the leds in their strings, either thru ignorance or just plain not caring . . . Ignorance because they, like a lot of people, just think a LED is a "bulb" when it is actually a semiconductor - a Light Emitting Diode and very diode has a maxiumum current that it can safely handle. In the case of a LED, this is around 20ma. Just not caring - well, LED's have at least a 10 times life span to normal incandescent lamps, but if you abuse them they will hav
  12. JonB256 wrote: Another post by me! In regards to A) - that is what I would expect - the end plug needs to be feed with pure AC. The power comes in (say the cold) and goes right to the end, and here feeds the far end of the leds AND one side of the end plug. The other (hot wire)comes in and "Y's" to a diode and goes right to the end for the end plug. The diode then feeds the 1st led anode, its cathode goes to the 2nd led anode and so on until it reaches the end. - The only way I can see that this can happen is if half wave AC is being supplied to the end plug, and I suspect this i
  13. Well, I have had a reply to my letter, and you will all be surprised at the content so you better read it! Good Morning John (or is it good evening there), I will look into some of your questions and see if I can get them answered. I am not a electrician nor a engineer so my info is pretty basic. But here is what I understand about the full-wave product. First you are correct there is nothing new about full-wave rectifiers, the use in the LED light string is new! We brought the first container in the country in 2002 (half-wave) and they had not so much as had a patent before that time (I
  14. Here is a image of a TEST set of NZ style light string withSOME sectionsmodified to LED - standard 5mm - I think you call that size T13/4. Our typical light sets have multiple sets of10x 2.4vlamps is series across 24v - these ones have 15x 2.4v lamps across 36v which are ideal for conversion into lots of 7 and 8 leds. These are being fed with 26 volts HALF wave BUT smoothed supply giving me around 33 volts - the load is so light the 24 volts go high! They have been turned on and off every couple of daysfor a couple of months - at Easter I noticed one set of the standard lights was out. They
  15. Here is aemail I sent to a supplier - perhaps somebody else can enlighten me : I have a question that I have wanted an answer to for sometime . . . I find it interesting that much fanfare is made of “Full Wave technology” as if it’s something new, when it has been used since the beginning of electronics, but back to the subject at hand. How can a manufacturer supply a LED string from a full wave bridge and still be able to plug another set of lights on the end without running the AC leads all the way to the end? Or do they actually do this? What I am saying is there is NO way you ca
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