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Did you know?
  • The original Rudolph did not have a red nose. In that day and age, red noses were seen as an indicator of chronic alcoholism and Montgomery Ward didn’t want him to look like a drunkard. To complete the original picture, he was almost named Reginald or Rollo.
  • The Christmas wreath was originally hung as a symbol of Jesus. The holly represents his crown of thorns and the red berries the blood he shed.
  • The three traditional colors of most Christmas decorations are red, green and gold. Red symbolizes the blood of Christ, green symbolized life and rebirth, and gold represents light, royalty and wealth.
  • Tinsel was invented in 1610 in Germany and was once made of real silver.
  • The oldest artificial Christmas trees date back to the late 1800s and were made of green raffia (think grass hula skirts) or dyed goose feathers. Next the Addis Brush Company used their machinery that wove toilet brushes to create pine-like branches for artificial Christmas trees that were less flammable and could hold heavier decorations.
  • ‘Jingle Bells’ – the popular Christmas song was composed by James Pierpont in Massachusetts, America. It was, however, written for thanksgiving and not Christmas.
  • Coca-Cola was the first company that used Santa Claus during the winter season for promotion.
  • Hallmark introduced their first Christmas cards in 1915.
  • The first recorded date of Christmas being celebrated on December 25th was in 336, during the time of the Roman Emperor Constantine. A few years later, Pope Julius I officially declared that the birth of Jesus would be celebrated on that day.
  • Santa Claus's sleigh is led by eight reindeer: Dasher, Dancer, Prancer, Vixen, Comet, Cupid, Dunder (variously spelled Donder and Donner), and Blixem (variously spelled Blixen and Blitzen), with Rudolph being a 20th-century inclusion.
  • Outdoor Christmas lights on homes evolved from decorating the traditional Christmas tree and house with candles during the Christmas season. Lighting the tree with small candles dates back to the 17th century and originated in Germany before spreading to Eastern Europe.
  • That big, jolly man in the red suit with a white beard didn’t always look that way. Prior to 1931, Santa was depicted as everything from a tall gaunt man to a spooky-looking elf. He has donned a bishop's robe and a Norse huntsman's animal skin. When Civil War cartoonist Thomas Nast drew Santa Claus for Harper's Weekly in 1862, Santa was a small elflike figure who supported the Union. Nast continued to draw Santa for 30 years, changing the color of his coat from tan to the red he’s known for today.
  • Christmas 2018 countdown has already begun. Will you be ready???
  • Why do we love Christmas? It's all about the traditions. In this chaotic world we can miss the "good old days." Christmas reminds us of that time.


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About woodie

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  • Birthday 03/12/1968

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  • Location
    Red Bank, South Carolina, USA
  • Occupation
    Field Engineer
  1. I agree with going under if you have the time. If you do this I would recommend 4" conduits with boxes ( I used irrigation control boxes from john deere ) at each end. This way I can put my extention cords in place and leave them by rolling the ends up and putting them in the box. This way I don't have to run them every time I need them.
  2. I assume you still want to access the garage durring your light display, and this is a little late in the season to start this project as it does take time and space to build. So maybe an idea for next year. You might want to consider some muslin covered frames and paint your own backdrop on them. I know it would not be reflective but it is on the low cost end, and the backdrop can be anything you want. These are what are used to make walls and backdrops on stage in the theatre. I built one (actually 4 long panels) and mounted it to my fathers garage door a few years ago so the door could still function. But stupid me did not take photos of em to save. They are light weight so they wont overload the opener. I built the bottom 3 the size of the door panels and the top one about 3" shorter than the top panel height to allow for clearance. Check the clearance when your door operates to make sure you have room for these they are 3/4" thick. You build a wood frame out of wood and lightly strech the muslin across it tacking it in place to the side edge of the frame with a staple gun (these staples will be removed later so dont try to make em flush). Next get a big bottle of elmers white glue and thin it down with water till you can brush it like paint, now paint this onto the muslin including the edge with the staples let this dry overnight. This does two things it adhears the muslin to the wood frame and it causes the muslin to pull tight on the frame. You can now remove the staples and trim the muslin flush with the back edge of the frame. I normaly prime mine with a coat of flat white latex then paint what I want on them.
  3. Sorry I could not find the solid red in 4" wide in stock at my normal vendors, but I did find 30' rolls of 2" wide for about $20 each. I know the vendor does not have a store in your area but they will ship. Here is the link: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200332679_200332679 I also found this which is the 4" wide scotchlite tape which is not quite the same thickness as what use at work. Problem here is this runs just over $170 plus shiping from 3m. Here is a quick link to it also. http://www.shop3m.com/75346756564.html Hope these help.
  4. Thanks snowluver, I owe you a big one. On the phone to Ace now trying to find one.
  5. All of my tree lights are blowing sections of strings out. I know it is only going to be a bulb problem. But my lightkeeper has been lost:(durring our house move. I have been trying to find which stores cary them but they are not showing up on any web pages. I dont have time to go to each store and search as we have a party tonight. Can someone please tell me Where are they sold? Thanks for any help with this.
  6. If you are into wood working here are a couple of links I have found out about through PC:happytree:: http://www.sherwoodonline.com/ http://www.thewinfieldcollection.com/catalog.aspx Both of these offer patterns and templates fordifferent holidays.
  7. Thanks for the info Chuck, I'll be sure to remember about that.
  8. Good idea! The only suggestion that jumped at me would be to make a cone template or use a traffic cone to help stabilize them during assembly. It would take care of the lean in the one on the right.
  9. woodie wrote: Jeeze this is embarrassing to admit but I used the wrong formula for the radius, the correct values for a 14' long string of lights are : rad: 3'1" hight: 13'7"
  10. joe denny wrote: The only reason I can still do all thistrig over 20 years since school is because I use it everyday, yes that is the majority of surveying. And yes I was the vocal one who questioned if we would ever use trigonometry in the real world:laughing:. Knowing all along I would have no choice as the son of an engineer, the little guy with the pitchfork made me do it. But enough fun I misunderstood what you were asking, I thought you wanted the tree to be 14'. So holding the light length at 14' and the ring at30' circumference you would get the following:
  11. ChuckHutchings wrote: Chuck the par lights use a sealed beam similar to a car head light and they use a grounded plug so they would be fine outdoors. As far as weather protection a tarp hung up or framed box would be plenty. Ellipsoidal lights use a halogen bulb that is not supposed to be touched as the oil on your skin will cause the bulb to weaken and blow out, they are also very susceptible to excess moisture. These bulbs are expensive ($7 plus each) and for this reason I recommend not using them for long term setup outdoors.
  12. The safest way to bend PVC is with a PVC heater made for the job, you can rent these at some construction rental company's or electrical supply houses.
  13. Having use the luminescent paint in theatre projects before let me beg you to shy awayfrom that idea. It does not glow evenly for a great amount of time, It worked for my applications (outlining backstage walkways for transit during lights out) only because it was under a great amount of light for a longer period of time than it was needed, and it got "recharged" (sorry don't know a better word to use:laughing:) often. I would pin-spot it with an extra light.
  14. Joe as I read it you want a total hight of 14' using 100ct strings to go up and down meaning 50 lights each run. Using that I came up with a base circumference of 56'10" by the following method: I used a generic spacing of 4" if your lights have larger or smaller spacing this size will change accordingly. The best thing to do is double a string over and measure it then run the math or post the length and I can run it if you want me to.
  15. I really love this idea, I feel it is totally appropriate. And I am sure our men and women in uniform thank you for it. It will be hard to make this silhouette have a halo effect around it as the open area in the middle makes back lighting it difficult at best. I think simply using alow intensity coloredwash (maybe gold or amber) from the ground 3-5' away, if this is done in a dark area with soft enough light it would make the cut-out appear in a glow. I personally would leave the silhouette just as it is. After all you are doing this as a show of support for our troops away from home.
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