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Did you know?
  • The original Rudolph did not have a red nose. In that day and age, red noses were seen as an indicator of chronic alcoholism and Montgomery Ward didn’t want him to look like a drunkard. To complete the original picture, he was almost named Reginald or Rollo.
  • The Christmas wreath was originally hung as a symbol of Jesus. The holly represents his crown of thorns and the red berries the blood he shed.
  • The three traditional colors of most Christmas decorations are red, green and gold. Red symbolizes the blood of Christ, green symbolized life and rebirth, and gold represents light, royalty and wealth.
  • Tinsel was invented in 1610 in Germany and was once made of real silver.
  • The oldest artificial Christmas trees date back to the late 1800s and were made of green raffia (think grass hula skirts) or dyed goose feathers. Next the Addis Brush Company used their machinery that wove toilet brushes to create pine-like branches for artificial Christmas trees that were less flammable and could hold heavier decorations.
  • ‘Jingle Bells’ – the popular Christmas song was composed by James Pierpont in Massachusetts, America. It was, however, written for thanksgiving and not Christmas.
  • Coca-Cola was the first company that used Santa Claus during the winter season for promotion.
  • Hallmark introduced their first Christmas cards in 1915.
  • The first recorded date of Christmas being celebrated on December 25th was in 336, during the time of the Roman Emperor Constantine. A few years later, Pope Julius I officially declared that the birth of Jesus would be celebrated on that day.
  • Santa Claus's sleigh is led by eight reindeer: Dasher, Dancer, Prancer, Vixen, Comet, Cupid, Dunder (variously spelled Donder and Donner), and Blixem (variously spelled Blixen and Blitzen), with Rudolph being a 20th-century inclusion.
  • Outdoor Christmas lights on homes evolved from decorating the traditional Christmas tree and house with candles during the Christmas season. Lighting the tree with small candles dates back to the 17th century and originated in Germany before spreading to Eastern Europe.
  • That big, jolly man in the red suit with a white beard didn’t always look that way. Prior to 1931, Santa was depicted as everything from a tall gaunt man to a spooky-looking elf. He has donned a bishop's robe and a Norse huntsman's animal skin. When Civil War cartoonist Thomas Nast drew Santa Claus for Harper's Weekly in 1862, Santa was a small elflike figure who supported the Union. Nast continued to draw Santa for 30 years, changing the color of his coat from tan to the red he’s known for today.
  • Christmas 2018 countdown has already begun. Will you be ready???
  • Why do we love Christmas? It's all about the traditions. In this chaotic world we can miss the "good old days." Christmas reminds us of that time.

-klb-

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About -klb-

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    http://www.LightsOnHarbor.com

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  • Location
    The Colony, Texas, USA
  • Occupation
    Network Engineer
  1. I think the smallest I have made has been around 4 inches.. I've done consistent curves up to about 30 inches.. Beyond that, I find that unless you have others around to help support the steel, just the weight of it coming out of the ring roller causes the steel to unbend the further into the curve you get.. They don't take a lot of effort to operate... On 1/4 cold roll, round rod, I just have mine bolted to a 4 foot chunk of 2x8. Put it on the bed/tailgate of the truck, and set a 75Lb anvil shaped object on the board, and I am good to go... One issue is that they tend to not feed straight, and create a corkscrew.. One fix for this is to clamp a pair if vise grips to the piece, and hold them so it can't twist as it runs through.. The second issue has to do with how the steel itself behaves.. If you start working a piece, and it doesn't bend as far as you want on that pass, you can tighten up the setting, and run it through again. Repeat until you have the size you want.. Now, if you start with a new piece of cold roll and the setting you just finished with, the resulting size will be much smaller than the previous one.. It just has to do with the way the metal works, rather than any issue inherent to the tool itself.. The other issue that I run into is that 1/4 inch round rod winds up with a set of four knurled lines along the rod, where the knurling on the rollers hits the rod... It doesn't bother me, but it could bother some people.. Depends in part on what you want to do with the bent metal... Personally, I've never managed to get perfection out of one. But if you look at it as a way to get close, so you can work it rest of the way yourself, you won't be disappointed..
  2. Yes, that is a very good way to do it in S2.. I do that all the time. I will note that I do ramp up/down, but I still only subdivide by the number of elements. I usually use one of the subdivisions as a ramp up, one on, and two, or three down.. So I can build this in the second element, and easily copy and past all the way down through the last one.. Though this way the ramp down on the last two or three items is still fading out after the time is over. However, I find that this gives the best sync to the feel of motion and the music.. Depending on how other timing marks line up, I may either find a place where the ramps and marks line up that I can copy and past into the first one, where the ramp up happens before the first subdivide timing, or manually insert a timing in front, to do the first ramp up.. Fun is when you want to sweep three different elements on the same beat.. One of them has 20 elements, one has 16, and another has 24... I just wind up deleting the timings sequencing that one section, then deleting and subdividing again.. It gets to where it is pretty quick to do..
  3. I had a 20% off coupon recently, and picked up a new one. While I had it stripped down, and cleaning it all with WD-40, I took a few photos before putting it back together.. All bearing surfaces were well coated with Lithium based grease before assembly.. Photos are at the link below, and should expand to 800x600 when clicked... http://talk.braby.us/index.php?topic=103.0
  4. Sounds like their way of clearing out the little odds and ends that turn up in the warehouse... Either they did not completely sell out some item, or maybe they expect some loss for misplaced items in the warehouse, and intentionally never quite sell any items out.. No matter how they wind up with left over stock, this sounds like a great way to clear it out considering their usual one day, one deal set up...
  5. Each vertical is 8 channels, of 400 lights per channel. There are 10 total vertials in that show, so that one element type accounted for 5 controllers by itself, and 32,000 lights.. Still trying to figure out video of it all. There were no good angles to get the whole show at once. I've got a ton of different angles to try and figure out how to splice together into something that makes sense, and doesn't kill people with excessive POV changes...
  6. Here is 3,200 mini lights on a 10 foot section of 3 inch PVC... I finally started editing all the video from that show... And one of the stands...
  7. The user control on an interval wiper is a potentiometer, but it is not connected to the motor directly. Rather it is part of a timer circuit, that drives a relay that bumps the motor out of the park position... With a 5 lead motor, you probably have something like the diagram at the bottom of this page... http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/schem/wiper.htm One other question... Do you want to trigger this with LOR? You could probably figure out where to insert a LOR driven relay, that kicks the motor out of park... Just turn that channel on for a half second, and the motor will go through a full cycle...
  8. Not the cheapest solution out there, but this is the DC motor equivalent of a dimmer switch, and won't loose torque like lowering the voltage will. http://www.ramseyelectronics.com/cgi-bin/commerce.exe?preadd=action&key=MSC1C
  9. There is also a clause in the NEC that calls for continuous duty load to not exceed 80% of the rating of the circuit. So the running load of an electric hot water tank, or an air conditioning unit should not be more than 80% of the rated circuit. In part this leaves some capacity for start up transients, and other abnormal load situations.. But that doesn't answer the question of if the way you use LOR counts as continuous load, or transient load... One thing I have seen in a data center in the past was a 20A circuit that had been running for who knows how long at 19.8A, and never tripped. Getting servers moved around to bring everything in under 16A was a headache that lasted longer than it should have, though a lot of that included trying to actually get everything in under 8A, so that if the dual supply servers lost a circuit, the load transfer would not cause circuits to go over 16A...
  10. I'd say that your post was slightly hijacked, and then even further hijacked, in that people read into it content from other similar discussions, and that any potentially critical commentary was directed at the other concepts, not your original idea... Relax.. To steal someone else's line, "It's just Christmas lights!"
  11. -klb-

    LED Sheep art

    I think I preferred this way to render the Mona Lisa Or this longer version of the video...
  12. I've never been happy with the visualizer intensities, but that is not the problem with DYC and the visualizer. The issue is that there is no mechanism to take a channle, and draw it one way part of the time, and a different way the rest of the time... You can always draw the channel with both elements, and draw the state select channel as a flag to show when the alternate version is live.. But just like RGB elements, it forces you to interpret how it will really appear.
  13. Ouch.. Good to know. I've got a couple of Bradford pears that more or less completely block the view of the front of my house. They are just about to the point of being large enough to touch the house.. I guess I need to start researching what trees will better fit the space, and are more likely to drop their leaves by Thanksgiving in this climate...
  14. If you have a HF ring roller, make sure you have lubricated it, and if you did not do it right out of the box, you might want to strip it apart and clean it first. Mine must have shipped with just a protective coating all the way through. I think I used it a few times before I realized it needed lubed. Now, some time later, it has galled itself to a stop. Much of the protective coating was still left on parts, and it was extremely sticky.. I got the impression that even with having lubed the roller through the grease fittings, it was still very tacky from the protective coating on the geared side of the roller, and that may have contributed to the galling.. The protective coating also caused the gears and rollers to be pretty well glued to their shafts. I've got mine unstuck for now, but we'll see if I get a few more minutes of use out of it, or hundreds of hours...
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