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jcazz

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About jcazz

  • Birthday 12/03/1975

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  • Website URL
    http://www.indychristmas.com

Profile Information

  • Location
    Indianapolis, IN
  • Biography
    2008 is my first year with a display, and I decided to jump in with both feet. 32 channels with more coming in 2009 (if the wife will let me!)
  • Interests
    Photography
    Computers
    Reading
    Various geekery
  • Occupation
    Information Technology
  • About my display
    2008: 10,446 lights consuming 46 amps (roughly). 32 channels of LOR running on an ancient computer which will probably need to be upgraded for next year's show.

    2009: 26,000 lights and 96 channels of LOR. Still need to upgrade my show computer!

    2010: About 30,000 lights; 128 LOR channels + DMX and RGB items. Show computer finally upgraded and running just fine with Windows 7 Ultimate!

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  1. I've used super-flat CAT5 cables for the last two years and they work great. The window will completely close around the cable, performance isn't impaired, and there are no drafts. Get it here: http://www.vpi.us/cable-sf.html FWIW: I live in Indiana - it get's nippy here in December.
  2. Help! I thought I had a cache of green incandescent minis tucked away for new mini trees this year and when I started to drag out supplies to get started I realized that I have red and clear, but I can't find my green to save my life! I need at least 32 boxes of 100 count green incandescent minis. I don't have a brand preference, Walmart, Hobby Lobby, Target, Menard's, etc. are all fine! If you have some you can spare - please PM me and let me know what you want for them. Thanks! Jacob
  3. Will, 48 or 36 LEDs? In the picture in the video I only counted 36. Still, it's impressively bright. I wanna see 'em against a brick wall though (Brad's working on that for me). Jacob
  4. Brad - I might be interested. Any chance you can setup one shining on a red brick house so I can see how it does? The brick really sucks up the light and I'm either going to double up on my Rainbow floods this year or add something mega powerful like this if I want to really wash the house in a solid color. If you don't have a good red brick house to test it on - I'm willing to beta test and shoot of it on my house for ya! Thanks, Jacob
  5. Hi Anthony - People will come and go. Some will say for one song, some will stay through the whole show, some will stay through several shows. I wouldn't sweat it too much. My first year the show was about 16 minutes, the last two years it's been in the 12 to 15 minute range. If I had a really long show or had a ton of sequences that put me in the 40 to 60 minute range I would actually probably break up the show and have two or three different shows that I rotated every few nights. That way people who come Monday could still have something to look forward to coming back to see on Wednesday. Last year there was a member here who created an entire night's worth of program for each night and each night was themed (classics, new Christmas music, etc.). A pretty crazy undertaking, but certainly very cool.
  6. Lowering the intensity to 80% will barely make a dent in amp draw. It's not a linear relationship. Somewhere there is a thread kicking around here with a chart of intensity settings and current and at 80% intensity you're still pulling almost the total current of full intensity. You don't see the current really fall off until you get down into the 40%/50% range and at that level you'll notice a huge impact to brightness. Here's a quick post I found on the subject: The post right below this puts the numbers into a table with percentages as well. At 80% intensity it was still drawing 87% of the full current.
  7. Bump & price reduction to $100
  8. I have an Enttec DMX Pro for sale. I bought it to use with LSP and decided to stay with LOR and an iDMX. It's been hooked up and tested, but otherwise it's new. I did not run any part of my show this year with it. I'm looking for $120. This is a good deal if you're thinking about moving into RGB/DMX devices for 2011. Thanks, Jacob
  9. You're the tricky CNC-coro-cutting-guy, I would leave the details of getting something made to you. Can you get coro in thinner "weights"? If so a cut topper with maybe 2" flaps to tuck into the star would be awesome. The entire thing would have to be skewed to fit the star diagonally, but I bet it would look very nice with RGB stars.
  10. They're bright enough with 3 of the 3 LED 5050 modules that I bet with a powdery snow they would be visible to some extent even if they were filled all the way up. The brightness would probably be affected, but those 5050s are bright and the snow actually acts as a great diffuser. I noticed that with no snow the 5050s really light up the overhead tree branches, so a little diffusion is probably not a bad thing. A thing, fitted coro "cap" would probably be an improvement as a lot of the light power is wasted shooting straight up.
  11. I finally got a chance to shoot some video of my CoroStars with snow in them. They work really well with a couple of inches of snow - no problems at all.
  12. The VAST majority of bulbs are 2.5v because 50*2.5v = 125 volts. There are typically 2 50-count strings in a set of 100 mini lights (that's why you can cut them in half). ES are energy saving bulbs like seen at Target and Phillips brands. They are not cross compatible with standard 2.5v bulbs. I keep my 2.5v ES bulbs separate from my 2.5v bulbs. I don't think anything I have uses a higher voltage bulb. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  13. Maybe a short on one of the strings? I had a red string on a mini tree buzzing and crackling when I setup this year. On close inspection a wire was bare near a bulb and arcing a little. Two years ago a flood light popped and blew the fuse on a controller. Double check your lights & wires, you will probably find a bad string somewhere.
  14. Are you using the 5MM, M6, or C6 LEDs from Paul? I've been thinking about going this route myself to free up some power for other plans in 2011 and switching out the mega tree might look nice without trying to hard to match the rest of the non-LED display.
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