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About Frank_Lo

  • Birthday 07/18/1963

Profile Information

  • My favorite Christmas story
    Seeing the faces of little kids on Christmas morning
  • Location
    Brooklyn, NY
  • Biography
    Love Christmas
  • Interests
  • Occupation
    Partners in security company
  • About my display
    I've been doing my display for over 27 years now and loving it more and more each year.

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  1. No, sorry I don't have the Halloween one.
  2. Back then they had 2 big buildings in Brooklyn and a showroom in Manhattan. The area that I was mostly in only had a few people working but was a big room. They would assembly the figures and make sure everything worked and then it would go to the seamstress and they may of had 2 of them in that section, but I can only recall seeing this one lady always there. Thinking back on it now I would guess there must of been another section that was doing them same and this may of been more for specialty. Of course they may of also ramped up depending on the time of year. I know they had a woodworking and molding sections of the building. They also did some pretty amazing things of Styrofoam. I remember they building a model of the Brooklyn Bridge and the World trade center.
  3. Here is the David Hamberger Easter/Spring 1984 catalog. David Hamberger EasterSpring 1984 Catalog.pdf
  4. Here is the David Hamberger Christmas catalog from 1983. David Hamberger Christms 1983 catalog.pdf David Hamberger Christms 1983 catalog.pdf
  5. If anyone is interested I have the 1983 and 84 David Hamberger Christmas catalog also the 1985 Easter/Spring catalog. That I could scan. It will take some time as each display is on a postcard with pricing and description on the back and they had a lot of figures back in the day. Just to give you an idea the mechanical Gnomes went for $249.50 each. I also have catalog from Display Arts from 1985 no pictures of there "Little People" figures just pricing and descriptions. I have a few postcard pictures of there larger figures that were selling back then. It would take a while to scan but if anyone is interested I would do and save it as a PDF file for you.
  6. If you are sure that the gear box are still good you may be able to just replace the motor. I have done this on a few Hamberger figures. I was lucky to have some around at the time. Even some old style box fan motors might work. The armature if it is still good on the old motor is all you would need and that would go in the new motor since it already has the groves cut for the gearing. I agree with that the Brevel motor are much better. I have some that are now over 30 years old and still going strong. You may also want to look at the armature and the bearing or bushing it goes into for any signs of rust or binding. I would suspect that the motors are overheating and burning out which doesn't seem to be a problem with the Brevel motors and does don't even have the fan on them. I see you live in NYC. I'm in Brooklyn if you want I'd be happy to take a look at it for you.
  7. Yes, as long as they are incandescent c7 and not LEDs you are good to go with wiring them up with vampire plugs and SPT 1 or 2 wire.
  8. You should have no problem lighting them individually. Regular c7 bulbs are 120v each. That is why when one would go out the rest of the string stays lit. The are wired up in parallel so each bulb always gets 120v.
  9. The easiest thing that comes to mind for me is to use a relay with a 120V AC coil and the contact to supply the 5V. When the AC is on the coil energizes and you get your 5V.
  10. You could use a 7805 voltage regulator. Your 9 volt input would be knocked down to 5 volts.
  11. Here is a wiring diagram that should work for you using 3 SPDT relays and 2 momentary switches. When switch 2 is pressed it causes relay 3 to close and remain closed until switch 1 is pressed. While relay 3 is closed relays 1 and 2 are not powered allowing the motor to go in one direction. Once switch 2 is closed it closes relay 3 causing relays 1 and 2 to have power and reversing the motor. This will keep going on until you use your wireless remote on/off to kill power to the motor. Let me know if you have any questions or problems. I believe that this will do what you are looking for.
  12. Not knowing what your setup is going to be. This may work if you are able to do something like this. The problem with using the relays is that once power is removed the motor will stop and when power is turned on again the motor will turn in the default position. So you would have a 50-50 chance of it going in the direction you wanted. What you could do is have a DPDT switch and when the motor reach the stop point of the first direction it would hit the switch and reverse the motor and when it reached the stop point of that direction hit the switch again. With this setup it could be something very easy to do or very hard all depending on what you are doing. This is a very cost effective way of doing what you want and would always remember the direction it was going last when power is removed. As an added safety measure you might also want to add 2 more switches just past the stop points of the main switch in case that switch goes bad it would hit they safety switch and remove power to the motor.
  13. Hi George, Thanks. How have you been?
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