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  • The original Rudolph did not have a red nose. In that day and age, red noses were seen as an indicator of chronic alcoholism and Montgomery Ward didn’t want him to look like a drunkard. To complete the original picture, he was almost named Reginald or Rollo.
  • The Christmas wreath was originally hung as a symbol of Jesus. The holly represents his crown of thorns and the red berries the blood he shed.
  • The three traditional colors of most Christmas decorations are red, green and gold. Red symbolizes the blood of Christ, green symbolized life and rebirth, and gold represents light, royalty and wealth.
  • Tinsel was invented in 1610 in Germany and was once made of real silver.
  • The oldest artificial Christmas trees date back to the late 1800s and were made of green raffia (think grass hula skirts) or dyed goose feathers. Next the Addis Brush Company used their machinery that wove toilet brushes to create pine-like branches for artificial Christmas trees that were less flammable and could hold heavier decorations.
  • ‘Jingle Bells’ – the popular Christmas song was composed by James Pierpont in Massachusetts, America. It was, however, written for thanksgiving and not Christmas.
  • Coca-Cola was the first company that used Santa Claus during the winter season for promotion.
  • Hallmark introduced their first Christmas cards in 1915.
  • The first recorded date of Christmas being celebrated on December 25th was in 336, during the time of the Roman Emperor Constantine. A few years later, Pope Julius I officially declared that the birth of Jesus would be celebrated on that day.
  • Santa Claus's sleigh is led by eight reindeer: Dasher, Dancer, Prancer, Vixen, Comet, Cupid, Dunder (variously spelled Donder and Donner), and Blixem (variously spelled Blixen and Blitzen), with Rudolph being a 20th-century inclusion.
  • Outdoor Christmas lights on homes evolved from decorating the traditional Christmas tree and house with candles during the Christmas season. Lighting the tree with small candles dates back to the 17th century and originated in Germany before spreading to Eastern Europe.
  • That big, jolly man in the red suit with a white beard didn’t always look that way. Prior to 1931, Santa was depicted as everything from a tall gaunt man to a spooky-looking elf. He has donned a bishop's robe and a Norse huntsman's animal skin. When Civil War cartoonist Thomas Nast drew Santa Claus for Harper's Weekly in 1862, Santa was a small elflike figure who supported the Union. Nast continued to draw Santa for 30 years, changing the color of his coat from tan to the red he’s known for today.
  • Christmas 2018 countdown has already begun. Will you be ready???
  • Why do we love Christmas? It's all about the traditions. In this chaotic world we can miss the "good old days." Christmas reminds us of that time.


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qberg last won the day on January 11 2019

qberg had the most liked content!

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157 Excellent

About qberg

  • Rank
    New Member
  • Birthday 06/23/1969

Profile Information

  • My favorite Christmas story
    Twas the Night Before Christmas
  • Location
    Spring Lake, NC
  • Biography
    Married with children
  • Interests
    automotive....and of course Christmas lights
  • Occupation
  • About my display
    Well known in our development....even the pizza delivery guy knows us as the Christmas house!

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4,125 profile views
  1. Very nice display again this year Big J! moving this summer to TN, so last year for lights on our house in NC. Because of that, I have not made any additions this year...not looking forward to redesigning everything
  2. how are you running the RGB mega tree? what type of controller? I had an issue when I went from S3 to S4, my internet port quit working to connect to my RGB network switch. Can you ping the RGB controller from the computer? Also, check your network settings in the new S5. My guess is you are missing the network for the RGBs in the new S5. as for nothing working...ensure the LOR Control Panel is loaded (the little blue/red light bulb). It has to be off to get the hardware utility to work, but re-enable your show after you are done.
  3. Excellent idea! They can break down easy for storage and wont short out strands when wet like wire frames...who wouldn't like less GFCI trips?
  4. The little C7 flicker bulbs don't do well in cold weather and are usually packaged as indoor use only. They just cant get warm enough to flicker in the cold. I have DIY posts along the road that I use them in and are fine for warm evenings in NC. An option for a flicker is to use LOR and a normal bulb. I use orange or yellow in the pumkins. Then run a repeating program to create a candle flicker. We do this for Halloween for all our blowmold pumpkins in the yard and it looks incredible. We have well over 20 pumpkins and started by spliting 8 of the LOR outputs to multiple pumpkins. As long as two pumpkins aren't next to each other from the same output no one can tell. I just built 1 line of candle flickering about 20 seconds long, repeating and then adjust the start time for other lines to create the random looking effect. LOR will allow you to simply adjust the intensity of the channels if it ends up too bright so you don't have to go back and reprogram it all.

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    Having issues with one of my Pixlite 4 controllers....anyone have an extra they would like to sell ASAP? Rich


  6. If you go with the thicker 10mm coro, the stuff you normally see in HomeDepot and campaign signs is only 4mm, you really won't require much bracing, if any. My 6'x6' snowglobe is 10mm coro and has one 2" stip running down the back, mainly so I can ziptie it easily to my pole. I use PVC tubes on the back of my little stuff and just slip it over wood stakes or 1/2" PVC over rebar. There are two big advantages to coro over plywood, completely weather resistant and very light weight. The con is prepping and getting paint/glue to stick to the plastic. I have begun using Liquid Nails Fuze-it http://www.liquidnails.com/products/fuze-it-all-surface-adhesive as my glue of choice for just about everything. It is excellent on coro as it stays slightly flexible and adheres very well to it..the con is it is grey and too think to use to lay down the poster image, but use it to glue any bracing or mounting. The problem with coro is it is resistant to chemicals so you aren't going to find any epoxy or anything that will chemically adhere to it. The flexibility of the fuze-it is great as it can flex with the coro and won't crack off the surface. To get the poster to adhere I would just lightly sand the coro to give it texture for the glue to adhere to. I do this and then spray with krylon adhesion promoter before painting and have had good success. For the poster you are doing I think lightly sanding the coro and using a spray glue would work just fine. I hit my painted stuff with a clear semigloss spray at the end to seal and protect it.
  7. Not sure about a specific forum, but I picked up a converter to step down the 36V to 12V. https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-Waterproof-Step-Down-Converter-Regulator/dp/B01LWXI5KZ/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_2­3­_­l­p­_­t­_­2­?­_­e­n­c­o­d­i­n­g­=­U­T­F­8­&­a­m­p­&­p­s­c­=­1­&­a­m­p­&­r­e­f­R­I­D­=­Q­S­S­6­5­3­W­0­Q450HXRARSRD A cheaper way is to just connect your 12V across two batteries, but with the converter it gets its load across all the batteries. It runs all the normal lights, radio, etc on the cart, however, I also installed a 12V "cigarette lighter" socket and use a small 120V AC inverter from an autoparts store that plugs into it to run the Christmas lights. I have seen some of the non-rectified LEDs flicker like crazy when driving, but othewise all the rectified LEDs run fine. if you need serious power this is an option too. https://www.amazon.com/BiXPower-110V-500W-Power-Inverter/dp/B0080YV0SY
  8. My concern with that would be if the cloth gets wet it will short across the posts.
  9. Shawn...if you can explain how I can turn everything on 100% and not trip a GFCI, but then 1 minute later when the show is running and it turns everything on instantaneously a GFCI trips, I am all ears. If it was a grounding issue I wouldn't be able to turn everything on and leave it on for 30 minutes. If it is a simple mechanical device, then there should be no difference between the two scenarios where the system is fully loaded. It obviously isn't anymore because your 1992 diagram/description above fails to show the auto self testing electronic mechanism that is running its self test every 3 minutes...which has now been required by code for the past couple of years. Go to a hardware store and try to find a non self testing one like the one shown in the diagram...scour the internet for one like I did this morning....they don't exist anymore! I am absolutely positive that if I could find that 1992 model GFCI my Christmas lights would run flawlessly! But good gosh the almighty safety council did a study and found that us bumbling idiots weren't self testing our GFCI outlets monthly and had to save us from our own stupidity by creating an automated self testing feature that runs monthly no, every 3 minutes! I can't wait til they make my smoke alarm beep every 3 minutes to let me know the battery is still ok! Any time an electronic component has been added to a device it becomes susceptible to electronic interference and here is a video proving RFI is jacking with electronics inside the ACFI breakers. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vZi_xQAtJgY After "googling" all morning there are numerous articles of electricians complaining about all kinds of nuisance GFCI trips from walkie talkies, cell phones, treadmills, electric drill battery chargers, etc. I will add that I am disappointed this electrician is calling the ACFI breakers a GFCI....but it is pretty amazing that he can press a button to talk on his radio and trip every AFCI breaker in the panel. If your house has the old style GFCIs god bless you....keep em! There is something going on in my system that is either magnifying the sensed difference between the neutral and hot loads or some type of RFI interference from my LOR controllers when the computer is running them during the show and messing with the new self testing electronics.
  10. I will...found a site selling large toroids & clamp-ons that you can get multiple turns through. Ham radio operators use these a lot. I was going to fire off an email to tech service and see what their thoughts were. Would help if we knew the RFI range that trips these GFCIs. Then we can design the most efficient choke for that range. Sounds like a science fair project for my kid.
  11. So I got to wondering this am about "how does rectified LED strands effect the GFCIs when plugged in"? While searching the net I came across this article that is the best I have seen in taking the mystery out of the GFCI outlets. It was interesting to see how the US (5-6mA) and European (30mA) standards differ on the allowed current leakage levels and dispels the myth I have heard about 20A GFCIs having a larger leakage limit that 15A. My thought on the rectified current vs AC was that the GFCI only trips when shorted between the HOT wire and ground. Therefore, the GFCI sensing for a fault is not seeing a steady current, but a fluctuating one as the HOT voltage is always cycling. When rectified, you have a steady current flowing through the LEDs (which is why they are brighter and don't flicker). Does this lead to the GFCI sensing an increased ground current which exceeds the fault limit? I can't find a straight answer, but my gut tells me no since the GFCI receptacle is just looking at the AC power at the GFCI and not the DC power downstream of the rectifier, but I can still cant shake the presumption that it may be affecting what the GFCI is sensing. Thoughts from any of the real electricians out there? https://www.westernautomation.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/GFCIs_For_AC_DC_Systems.pdf Something else I noticed in my display last night (everything is still damp but not soaking wet from the rain over the weekend), is I can turn on each LOR controller and RGB power supply individually and not trip my GFCIs. I can leave them all on 100% doing it this way and they will stay on and not trip a GFCI. But during my Clark Griswold intro clip when it goes from all dark to 100% on everything, some twinkling/flashing/etc, I will trip one of the GFCIs every time. So power fluctuations/spikes can trip them even when the steady state load is fine. This got me thinking about the ferrous magnets Big J mentioned. When searching about nuisance GFCI trips, there are plenty of electricians out there scratching their heads when you have two-way radios, cell phones, appliances that aren't even connected to the same circuit causing the electronics in the GFCI to sense a fault and trip. After watching some youtube videos on how these magnets affect signals, I believe these magnets that you see more in audio/visual/computer data equipment definitely can help reduce the with nuisance trips since the fault that the GFCI is sensing is cycling and the ferrous magnets around the cord is designed to dampen out the spikes. I just ordered up a lot of em for all my DC power supplies, LOR controller power cords and main extension cords that plug into the outlets to try to eliminate the power surge nuisance trips I see in my dynamic display. Along with sealed LEDs on my ground items I am hoping to just about eliminate GFCI trips next year. A more humorous take on GFCIs is in this youtube video. I follow this guy and cringe a lot watching his videos, but he provides good info on all sorts of electronics. It was interesting watching the tests of the GFCI and the numbers he quotes on how much current the human body can withstand match the pdf above. Fast forward to 6:27...the GFCI doesn't trip in a bowl of cold water?!?!?! and then keep watching as he tests current levels on himself...lol https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GlM6PE2kKVY
  12. I've seen it called a "bubble tree". I like it a lot. Here are two posts that have what you are looking for. http://forums.planetchristmas.com/index.php?/forums/topic/59944-mini-bubble-tree/&tab=comments#comment-653002 http://forums.planetchristmas.com/index.php?/forums/topic/58605-what-is-this/&
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