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VO1HAX

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  • Content Count

    104
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  • Last visited

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10 Good

About VO1HAX

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 12/15/1988

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://vo1hax.com

Profile Information

  • Location
    Newfoundland, Canada
  • Biography
    My name is Brandon
    I am 21 years old
    I am an amateur radio operator
    http://forums.planetchristmas.com/group.php?groupid=22
  • Interests
    Amateur Radio
    Designing And Building Small Electronic Devices
    Aviation
    Computer Repair
    Computer Networking
    Programming
    Web Design
    Sound Engineering
    Live Audio
    Lighting
  • Occupation
    A little bit of everything and a lot of nothing (take that how you wish)
  • About my display
    For 2009 I Used:
    - 32 Channels Of Lights
    - A Decade FM 850 - Professional, Hi-Fi Stereo, 1.8 Watt, Low Power FM Transmitter To Broadcast My Audio
    - A UPM EM-100 Energy Meter To Calculate The Total Cost For Running My Display
    - Somewhere Around $10-$15 In Electricity (Not Just For Lights)
    - Peak Power Was 1.5kW, Which Is About The Same As A Small Portable Heater.

    For 2010 I Am Using 64 Channels Of Lights and A LITTLE More Power - Got Two More Controllers From The "Secret Sale."

    http://vo1hax.com | http://vo1hax.com/christmas


    For any Hams or anyone interested in the amateur radio hobby, feel free to join the group:
    http://forums.planetchristmas.com/group.php?groupid=22
  1. I don't have any from last year (I have some taken with my phone that you can't see anything), but I have some of Halloween 2009 and 2001 as well as my Christmas display from 2009. They are on my website, under Christmas. You can ignore the 2 links on the main Christmas page and just skip the the Videos page. VO1HAX.com
  2. I spend 11/12 months thinking about PlanetChristmas related stuff! My lights have taken over my life. I invest my life into my display...I think I need to check my priorities!
  3. Wow, looks like you went pro over night! That's a really great idea! Hope lots of people see it!!!
  4. Looks like I misunderstood! I thought he meant fading like from left to right without having the colors blend.
  5. From experience, yes, you still get the mix of colors, BUT there might be somewhat of a way around it. With standard floodlights you get more of a washed out mix, but if you use narrow floodlights (PAR16 or PAR20), you might be able to do it a lot better. The only downside is the lack of coverage and the fact that you'll need more. I think LEDs give a much nicer color and less washout, but either will give you the same results. Hope that helps, at least somewhat!
  6. Will you be using the iDMX1000 to control the DMX lighting or will the DMX network be controlling the LOR controllers? If you are using the iDMX1000, then everything is A-okay! If you are using DMX to control the LOR boxes, then you won't be able to use the LOR triggers (as it will be just light having a 16 channel dimmer pack), which means you would have to use something to trigger the DMX controller. Well, with the professional grade units, you can use the CTB16 Input Connector [http://store.lightorama.com/ctinco3in.html] with up to 3 individually controlled inputs (buttons, motion senso
  7. Most certainly! First I'll address the buttons. Best place to look for buttons, I think, is eBay or any bulk electronic store/warehouse. I think most of the buttons should be okay out in the weather. I think these ones look cool (and they come in multiple colors) [12V Metal Switch Momentary Push Button]. Just make sure whatever buttons you pick are momentary and not latching. Now the weatherproofing part will bring me into how you connect the buttons to the LOR controllers. You'll just want some small wire (you can use telephone cable, speaker wire, Ethernet cable, etc.) to connect the butto
  8. I have a lot of ideas, but seeing as you're, "not a good DIY person," you might want a hand or two with most of these options. I'll throw them all out there in hopes that, at least, someone will get some use out of them. I won't get into detail, at the moment, as to how each one can work, but some ideas to think about. 1) If you would like to go with a telephone trigger, I can think of a few ways. - Using a simple programming language, like VB6, you could easily create a program to detect a call on a modem, drop the call, and trigger an action. - Using a phone with a ring indicator ligh
  9. From one ham to another...YOU NEED MORE POWER! :giggle: It needed to be said! Whatever you do, do NOT take power away from your hamshack...it is vital to your heath that you have more then enough power in there to power and key up all the radios at the exact same time, although that will never happen! On a half-serious note (I'm never completely serious), I'm afraid that spending money on LEDs may be your only reasonable option. First I would map out EVERY circuit you can **** juice from and find your total usable power. If you want to work some DX on 80m, I don't think you'll want to
  10. Hello Brandon Sound Engineering ehhh... Thats a tough field to make a living. Ive been doing it over 35 years. Lots of Touring. The pay rate has not changed much in the past 20 years. I used to come up and Do sound for the North by North East festival. at a club called "REVERB" in downtown Toronto. These days I do mostly Smooth Jazz on the Road. Here is my website http://www.angelfire.com/indie/Engineer Neal-KA2CAF/W2CJA we got 18 inches of snow yesterday. Snowed in.. so Im working on my LOR Master control room mounting Controllers and outlets Onto a 4X8 plywood on the basement wall Getting ready for Next season.

  11. You'll want to double check them to make sure they are the ones that have the voltage regulation, those things can get pricy. I think I'd go this season with flickering lights and upgrade for next year. Just tell everyone that it's part of the display (and you didn't even have to buy another controller to do it).
  12. Yes, those would be the ones. Most should get you 660W (5.5 Amps). It may not be much, but you could eliminate one side of a controller and maybe shift channels to best use as much of that power as you can. Even that little bit could reduce or eliminate a noticeable flicker. Your outdoor light socket should have no problem handling anything the adapter can. On the other hand, if you put a 300W bulb in the socket, it may melt it from heat. As for grounding, as long as you have 1 side of the controller grounded, the other side is grounded as well! I have never installed a lightin
  13. You could use a power conditioner, which would maintain a constant 120V. On the other hand, it's not worth the cost for a minor annoyance like that. I recommend just to wait until you can add some new circuits and/or convert your lights to more energy efficient ones! If you have outdoor lights on a separate circuit, you can buy socket adapters and power a controller off of that, but you will have to ground it elsewhere.
  14. First to answer the question, yes you can. As to HOW, it's quite simple as long as you have free channels in controller 2 OR if you want to swap channels from controller 2 to controller 3 and then put the ones from controller 3 to controller 2. For example, if you look at your LOR Sequencer screen and see: ... MegaTree7 (Controller 2 Ch7) MegaTree8 (Controller 2 Ch8) Arch1 (Controller 2 Ch9) Arch2 (Controller 2 Ch10) ...etc... Mini Tree1-7 (Controller 3 Ch7) MiniTree1-8 (Controller 3 Ch8) NOTHING1 or SOMETHING1 (Controller 3 Ch9) NOTHING2 or SOMETHING2 (Controller 3 Ch10) ... T
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