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Everything posted by n1ist

  1. According to the TI datasheet, the maximum emitter current (that's the sum of all the channels) is 2.5A worst case. They also spec maximum die temperature so that's the second limit on power dissipation. /mike
  2. Make sure you don't accidentally stick anything (a finger, a tool) in the open section of the breaker box where the breakers are missing. I'd even tape a cardboard or plastic cover over the big holes. It's way to easy to be killed or start a fire with what you have now. As for power, a 15A circuit can handle 1800W non-continuous or 1440W continuous load, so you are way under that with 800W per circuit. /mike
  3. Most of those are 14 or 16 volt bulbs, and are wired in series. Remember the old light strings - if one goes out, they all do. Unlike the modern dollar-store bulbs, the entire milk-glass envalope is the bulb. More modern ones are plastic shells that fit over a bulb. /mike
  4. My guess is that you are pulling too much current with your strings. You would need to change the triac to one with a higher rating and may need to heat simk it. /mike
  5. If you hardwire together molds, you won't be able to separate them for storage or to use them in different places in the future. /mike
  6. Do not make a double-male (suicide) cord. It's illegal and can be deadly. Why not run an extension cord up the tree from where the lights should plug in to where the plug is now? /mike
  7. PIR depends on a roughly body temperature thing moving in the field of view. Ultrasonic or beam-break may be better in this case. /mike
  8. For safety, you MUST have a transformer in your power supply to isolate the lights from the AC line. Omitting the transformer can leave you with a lethal situation. /mike
  9. I'd try orange or white with brown caps or tinting. Running at lower voltage may shift the orange enough. /mike
  10. It's a pushbutton (or more commonly two, one for each hand) that needs to be continuously pressed to allow the effect to be fired. A person with direct view of the entire area would hold down the buttons during the show; if at any time he thinks there's a safety issue (someone or something in the area, a malfunction, etc.), he would let go of the button and the effect would not fire. Name comes from the early days of trains; if the engineer was injured or died, he would stop holding the deadman and the train would stop. As for how it's wired, that depends on the unit. Ideally, it would be in series with the solenoid that releases the gas. /mike
  11. They have one of these in the discovery room at the Boston Museum of Science. I think they used fluorescent tubes rather than incandescents with a diffuser panel. You could also look at the white LED flex tapes on eBay. 1400W in an enclosed box with plastic sounds like something will end up melting. /mike I just did a quick Google search and found these plans
  12. The DMX specification states that DMX should NOT be used to control pyro or automation as it has no error-detection or error-correction in the protocol. I would not use it unless there is an additional deadman switch controlled by someone with a clear view of the area at all times. /mike
  13. It depends on what you are using them for. If they are for ethernet or RS485 (DMX, Renard, Pixelnet), then it does matter - at least that you get the twisted pairs in the right place (1&2, 3&6, 4&5, 1&8). For DC applications (controlling SSRs, spotlights, etc), then it doesn't matter as long as the pins are connected straight thru (1-1, 2-2, 3-3, etc) /mike
  14. Your picture doesn't quite show the connections on the switch. It should be like this, which will guarantee that the male plug is either totally isolated or feeding the floodlight. /mike
  15. Please note that having an energized male plug is both a NEC violation and a safety hazard. This includes one with a connected neutral as the neutral (being a current-carrying conductor) is not at ground potential, and if it is ever broken after the male plug, would be at full line voltage. You could connect a pigtail outlet to the photocell and a male cord to the floodlight and tuck it into the box; Just unplug the floodlight from the photocell and run an extension to your LOR. It would still be a code violation (use of flexible cord for permanent wiring, and no breaker or fuse on permanent wiring fed by a male plug) but at least it wouldn't be a shock or fire hazard. The code compliant way would be to mount a flanged inlet (basically a panel-mount male plug) and use a DPDT switch to switch both the hot and neutral wires of the floodlight to either the inlet or the photocell. In both of these cases, ground for the incoming wiring, pigtail or inlet, outgoing wiring to the floodlight, and the box itself should all be common. /mike
  16. Voltage drop would be the same (both have 12AWG wire). The benefit of 12/3 is that you get two 20A circuits but only have to pull one cable, Just make sure you feed it from a double-pole breaker. /mike
  17. You want a junction box with threaded holes; that one is for gluing in pvc conduit. Something lilke http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical-Electrical-Boxes-Conduit-Fittings-Boxes-Brackets/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xh3Zbohn/R-100206607/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053 with this cover and socket set http://www.homedepot.com/Lighting-Fans-Outdoor-Lighting-Spot-Flood-Lights/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xh3Zasjm/R-100652905/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053 with the appropriate cable clamp for the incoming cord. /mike
  18. The Chauvet (and likely American DJ) ones actually use the IEC for line voltage control, but use a non-standard pinout. They use the pin that's normally ground for the neutral, and the one that's normally neutral for a switched neutral. The hot is still hot. The remote gets its power between H and G, and has the control triac or switch between N and G. Not code compliant, but won't cause fireworks if someone plugs a standard line cord in instead of the fogger. It looks like your remote is using the same pinout. I'd wire the relay across the green and white wires. Make sure the relay's contacts are rated at 110v, and take all appropriate safety precautions (strain relief, insulation, enclosure). /mike
  19. In a three-wire dryer circuit, you have two hots and a neutral, with *NO GROUND*, and the neutral wire can not be bare or green. There is a special exemption that allowed dryer and range frames to be bonded to the neutral (but only for dryers and ranges). Since the 2002 NEC, all new dryer and range circuits must be 4-wire. So there's no NEC-compliant way to get two 110V outlets off a dryer plug; the closest and safest is to use two GFCIs and not connect the ground. You can't use the neutral as a ground since voltage drop will cause it to be at a non-ground potential, and an open neutral in that case would energize the "ground pin". As for "remembering" that the white is hot, re-identify it with heatshrink or marker. You are not allowed to re-identify a green or green/yellow wire or use the bare wire for anything other than ground. If you have 3-wire cable, the only legal and safe way to use it is to get one 110v 20A circuit per cable, and you need to watch for voltage drop if they are long enough. I guess you could send 220V with no neutral and use a transformer with appropriate fuses at the far end to get a derived neutral, but it probably would be cheaper (and easier) to get a new 12/4 or 10/4 cable /mike
  20. If you are looking for www.diylightanimation.com, it is also working. /mike
  21. A few issues come to mind: - That is a 110V only transfer switch, and you have 220V service to your subpanel fed from the upper left breaker - That is a 20A transfer switch; you can't run a 100A circuit through it. Remember that the transfer switch handles both the normal line and generator power, just one at a time. It sounds like that is not the right transfer switch, and really not the right place for one given your generator. A better thing to do would be to place a transfer panel next to the subpanel fed from the 100A breaker and move over the specific circuits that you want to protect. One like Reliance Controls 20-Amp (4-Prong 6-Circuit) Indoor Transfer Switch is a better choice. /mike
  22. n1ist


    Our local target was totally stripped this morning. There were only two boxes of lights and no extension cords. I did pick up two 42" LED snowflakes for $6.50 each. Just in time for my daughter's Nutcracker recital next week. /mike
  23. A Hazer-style system won't work on the BX due to the stepped taper. Maybe you could run a length or two of emt up one face and use a sleeve with three rollers that ride on the emt? I'd also be careful about the wind loading of the panels and lift system. /mike
  24. What about either solar or battery power (with a gel cell you charge daily)?
  25. If you are pulling 20A circuits, you have to use 12ga wire. /mike
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